RE: Guitar Amp? (Full Version)

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trj -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/13/2007 5:40:30 AM)

http://http://shop.e-stimsystems.com/product_info.php?products_id=61

This might work for your purposes too. It is made for e-stim, less expensive than an ET 312 and sound operated.

If anyone has experience with these maybe you could post and let us know if the thing works?




petdave -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/13/2007 6:32:17 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: tag8833

The reason I asked about a guitar amp, is that is what I read about years ago.

I do have 2 guitar amps.  A standard 50 Watt amp, and a 20 Watt studio amp that has all sorts of specialized adjustments (reverb and stuff).  I also have access to several other speaker amps.  Those run alot more power, so I was thinking I'd stay clear of them.  I tried using my IPod's audio output and was unable to produce a sensation (at 10 mA).  I'm thinking that since I can plug the same headphones I use on my IPod into the 20 Watt amp, that there would be no problem setting the signal strength low enough to be non-threatening.  I know that you can get shocked by a 9V battery at 50 mA, so I would probably use that as a celing for an initial test.  It takes 500 mA across a human heart to kill someone.


Okay, your ipod is designed to drive headphone speakers that are less than a half of an inch across and weigh some fraction of an ounce, and your guitar amp is running, what, 6" speakers? a single 10" that weighs several kilos? That's kind of a jump experimentally. Headphone-level outputs deliver *tiny* amounts of power, that's why i suggested speaker-level outputs off an old battery-powered radio.

What do you think would happen if you wired your ipod 'phones to your amp? You'd let the magic smoke out. i don't think you'd even get an agonized squeak out of them first.

i did a quick look on eBay, and it looks like 50-watt amps are selling anywhere from $200 to over $1000 depending on what they are (i'm not a musician, i just look like one)... sell the sucker and buy an ErosTek 232 for $350 ($500 is the big'un, the 312). i'm all for experimenting (you have NO idea [:D]), but as pgashlie said, you're giving altogether too much consideration to using the wrong tool for the job in a situation where the being wrong can kill you before you have a chance to react.

...dave




Alumbrado -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/13/2007 8:15:14 AM)

Whatever you do, don't turn the amp up to 11...[sm=whoa.gif]




Termyn8or -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/13/2007 2:08:29 PM)

tag we need to have a little talk. I did a jumpthrough, sorry but we need to clarify things.

The frequency an amp puts out is determined by the input frequency. The amplitude of the output is dependent on the input level.

In the case of a hifi amp you put in a voltage and it attempts to reproduce it as accurately as possible in voltage. Current drain on the output is determined by the impedance of the speaker system, which can vary drastically with frequency. The hifi amp puts out a constant voltage GAIN, based on the settings.

A guitar amp is designed not to do that. It could be said that they do not desire a high damping factor, which means it will have a higher effective output impedance. In a hifi amp the low impedance is capitalized on to make enough low bass out of a woofer that is much smaller than the waves it must reproduce. The effect is caused by the inductance of the speaker. Better woofers are more turns of heavier wires vs less turns of thinner wire, which may result in the same nominal impedance, but a drastic difference in the impedance curve vs frequency.

A guitar amp is not designed that way. Even solid state ones make an attempt at soft clipping, and tubes are even better. They want the speaker to interact with the output stage when clipping. This is what gives you the sweet Fender sound or whatever. While many of them do have overdrive stages at the input, the best squeal and grind is obtained by clipping the output stage.

Now there are certain caveats if you want to stay alive. First of all if you have a tube amp, don't even think about it, what's more on a solid state amp you are going to have to float it, that is interrupt the ground wire. The ground wire can kill in this situation.

Even if you use a stereo amp which is alot better choice, do not connect it to any other equipment that may be grounded. Also you might want to take it to a local TV shop and have a hot leakage current check done before you start. I know how to do such a test, the right way as well as the improvised way, at any rate it is tested at real line voltage, not with an ohmmeter.

There are other options, and really a battery powered boombox will never give you a lethal ground fault as long as it is running off batteries. There are many models with seperable speakers which means you have access to the speaker wires. That should be all the power you need. It does depend on how you wish to place the electrodes though. If you are going to use a urethral electrode you'll have plenty of voltage as long as you have a good other side (like a ground) on your body. Remember nothing above the waist, at least for now. You need a bipolar system for that, and this is not. Even the two channels share a common ground, even if the output is a BTL configuration, the only thing that can make it bipolar is transformers.

You can actually make electrodes with paper towels and duct tape. Get the towels stuck, put the wire under them first and then pour on some saltwater. Just enough, but make sure it is enough. Then you can use medical tape, or more duct tape to adhere it to the skin.

Depending on your choice of electrodes you might need more voltage. If you want to persue this I think the best solution is line drop transformers used in PA systems. Each transformer should be the kind that isolates, not all of them do, but when you get it, there will be 35.3 V and 70.7 V taps on the primary and hopefully 4, 8 and 16 ohm taps on the secondary. You can get many voltage step up ratios, but I am not saying to use the 70.7 V tap. All you might want to do is feed the 4 ohm and take off the 16 ohm. That will double the voltage. For a little more kick you can feed the 16 ohm and tap off the 35.3 V winding.

If you are ever going to use more than one channel you must be sure that the transformer effectively isolates. You might just have to learn some more electronics, but there's nothing wrong with that.

I also suggest that you go to a garage sale and pick up a used keyboard. Going through all the notes etc will give you an idea of what frequencies are good and which are bad. The human body also has an impedance curve and to me it seems inductrive, although that has no basis in physics. I only know this because I have a Wavetech waveform generator I use sometimes. Has a big vernier for the frequency and I notice that at certain low range no stim is best. It can be painful. Getting to the higher frequencies, especially in sinewave mode, the voltage needs to be turned up to feel it, and then it starts feeling good.

So I can't explain why it seems inductive, it is completely subjective, but that seems to be the way it is.

At this point I would suggest you visit PES, I think it is PES.com but not sure. Personal Electronic or Electrical Stimulation is what it stands for. They have these gnarly looking electrodes for both male and female that are made out of this hypoallergenic conductive silicone based shit. No matter what you feed them with, good electrodes are a must. If you don't have a contiguous contact area it can burn like hell. I've tried a bunch of different things, and but a few were even worth a mention.

But I still don't think I would use a guitar amp. I think even a moderately powered stereo reciever would be better. Anything battery powered would be even better. If you get a boombox that runs off of 8 D batteries, you should have plenty of juice.

T




BossyShoeBitch -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/14/2007 9:04:06 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: instynctive

quote:

ORIGINAL: chellekitty
i would pay for a video clip of that [sm=flying.gif]



Shall I re-enact it for you?

:-P


chellekitty,
I'll split the cost with you...[image]http://www.collarchat.com/micons/m11.gif[/image]




Crush -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/14/2007 1:01:47 PM)

You can also modify the speakers you get with your desktop PC that you never use ;)  

I converted a 9V pair to run off battery and input can be all sorts of things, from estim audio to voice to funky waveforms with something like NHC Tone Generator. 

Just replace the input with a 9V battery clip, take the speakers and convert them to leads like banana clips/alligator clips/etc.  And with stereo output, you get two different fun spots

ONE IMPORTANT POINT:  Turn them on BEFORE you attach them.  Otherwise you'll get a nasty "startup" jump.

Remember:  The bigger the electrode, the more diffuse the shock.  The smaller the electrode, the sharper. 








tag8833 -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/14/2007 5:13:52 PM)

Thank you everybody for trying.  I apologize for dragging this thread out, and intentionally posting bad science.  I was fishing for some expertise.  Special thanks to trj for posting a great link to the exact sort of thing I was looking for.
 
If anyone understand the science and can give me numbers (volts, amps, ohms) feel free to message me.
 
Otherwise, I would add my voice to the chorus that says "Don't do electrical play if you don't know exactly what you are doing." 




sireninchains -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/14/2007 9:37:18 PM)

-fast reply-
I know of two vibrators that sync to the music, the iBuzz and OhMiBod. If you want to modify one, as was suggested earlier, look those ones up.




Elorin -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/15/2007 8:32:25 AM)

The Audi-Oh is also a music (ambient sound, actually) activated vibrator. I have both the iBuzz and the Audi-Oh. I haven't used the iBuzz w/ an MP3 player yet, but I imagine an e-mail to a tens unit company would let you know if there was a way to create an MP3 player input to a tens device.




Crush -> RE: Guitar Amp? (7/15/2007 4:56:36 PM)

Of course, there is the "iGasm"   http://www.annsummers.com/single.asp?gid=7&cat=2005&scat=&pid=4299






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