Elegant
Posts: 1024
Joined: 3/15/2005 Status: offline
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Without knowing the type of leather of your collar it is difficult to provide exact advise. Care is different depending on tanning methods, dyes and finishes. Some basic info: PREVENTATIVE MAINTAINCE Keep collar clean! Sweat, blood, oils and other body fluids can harm leather. Even ordinary substances such as alcoholic beverages, sodas and juice, gasoline and body lotions can your collar. Gently clean leather after each use, or daily if worn every day. Wipe down with a clean, damp cloth and let it dry dry thoroughly in a well-ventilated area before putting it back on. This would be a good evening task before bedtime. DEEP CLEANING Some traditional leather cleaners contain glycerin and are not a good choice for leather worn on a daily basis. Glycerin acts as a humectant, which means it tends to attract and hold moisture from the air. While that property may help leather fibers remain flexible, it also provides a lovely location for mold, mildew and nasty odors. Saddle Soap is a mild soap containing some blended conditioners. Many brands are available and comes in paste, liquid and bar form. White, yellow and black colors available. Saddle soap is like face soap. You use it to wash the dirt out. Then you must remove the soap but without oversoaking the leather. Dry the leather in the sun to take advantage of the disinfectant properties of the sun's ultraviolet light. (Hint: Do this on a breezy day so that there is less time the leather needs to remain in the sunlight) Vinegar (50% vinegar to 50% water) can also be used to remove odors from leather but do know that it can all damage the fibers, will cause excess drying of the leather and could cause extreme discoloration. After washing the leather with quality saddle soap spray a fine mist of the vinegar solution over the leather, wipe with a clean soft cloth and let air dry in the sun. RECONDITIONING You will need to recondition your leather after deep cleaning. You have removed the villains but you have also removed the natural and impregnated leather oils that keep quality leather in top-quality condition! Choose your conditioning product with care. (My favorite for topgrain, aniline tanned leather collars is Aussie Leather Conditioner.) - Mink Oil: It's primary purpose is as a water proofing agent for hiking boots. It is not recommended as a protective or conditioning coating for garment or toy leather. As an animal byproduct there is a chance of rancidity. Some Mink leather products have filler ingredients so read the label if you prefer good quality.
- Neatsfoot Oil: A "neat" is a beef animal, and this oil used to be made out of cow hooves, hence the name. Nowadays it is derived from a variety of hoofed animals. It is heavy oil and is known to rot cotton stitching on leather items that have been sewn. As an animal byproduct there is a chance of rancidity.
- Beeswax Products (Aussie Leather Conditioner, Dansko Beeswax Conditioner, Pecards etc): Light viscosity offers superior massaging ability for garments and whips.
- Dubbin: (Chelsea Dubbin & Leather Food, Don Thomas Dubbin, Mr S., etc) A generic name for a product usually consisting of beeswax and rendered tallow (rendering slows rancidity action) (http://dubbin.olimarthewondercat.com is a hilarious site dedicated to dubbin)
- Grease: (Huberd’s, Obenaufs): Pine resin and beeswax based conditioning and water repellant product. Heavy consistence makes this a superior product for oil tan boots.
For superior results take your leather clothing and boots to an experienced bootblack for quality care. RESOURCES http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/BootblackForum http://www.geocities.com/bootpigaz/bootblacking.html http://www.virginiabootboy.com http://www.bootdog.com Http://www.geocities.com/alleycatoronto http://www.FantasiesInLeather.com/leather_care.htm
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Elegant ~Slave To Master Archer http://www.FantasiesInLeather.com
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