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Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 9:10:51 AM   
FlorentineJohn


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What is your opinion of the best type of floggers to use when doing Florentine flogging?  I have a matching pair of deerkskin floggers that I use for Florentine work -- very light weight.  But what I find is that the deerskin is so light that it is sometimes hard to keep the tails together, and that stray tails in one of the floggers will from time to time become entangled in the opposite flogger when they are crossing.  Perhaps heavier material would work better? 

Thanks. 
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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 10:52:49 AM   
LadyPact


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You're singing My song, John!

I have the same opinion as you about the deerskin.  While they are great for the lighter weight so that a good florentine rep can be used as a warm up, one of the issues is that they are so lightweight that if you're not giving yourself a good workout as far as speed, the falls will tangle.  This can be avoided by keeping the tails very short, but I don't work leather Myself, so if they didn't come that way, I'm hesitant to cut them down.  What might be better suited for what I think you're driving at is elk.  It has a bit more weight to it, and reduces a lot of the issue that your having with the tangles.  Also what might help would be to search for knotted leather.  While knots do add more sting, they eliminate some of the issue.

Another thought is that you might want to think of a matching pair of dragon tails for your florentine.  One tail, no tangles.

Hope I helped.


< Message edited by LadyPact -- 12/31/2007 10:53:51 AM >


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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 12:08:12 PM   
MasterSohun


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horsehair floggers my pick!i like Adam and Jillians sesual whips for that

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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 12:10:09 PM   
MasterSohun


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oops that is Adam and Gillians sensual Whips

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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 1:55:39 PM   
Phin


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quote:

ORIGINAL: LadyPact

I don't work leather Myself, so if they didn't come that way, I'm hesitant to cut them down. 
leather does not fray like cloth does unless you pop it the way you can a towel. get you a good sharp knife, box cutters will work like a charm, and cut away. just be certain that you get the falls all the same length on both floggers, that may be a small challenge.


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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 3:11:16 PM   
SirJohnMandevill


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quote:

ORIGINAL: FlorentineJohn

What is your opinion of the best type of floggers to use when doing Florentine flogging?  I have a matching pair of deerkskin floggers that I use for Florentine work -- very light weight.  But what I find is that the deerskin is so light that it is sometimes hard to keep the tails together, and that stray tails in one of the floggers will from time to time become entangled in the opposite flogger when they are crossing.  Perhaps heavier material would work better? 

Thanks. 


I suppose I could Google it...but what is "Florentine" flogging? Not familiar with anything but plain ol' flogging!

Les (Purveyor of Fine New Years Kink)

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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 3:28:44 PM   
Phin


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Florentine is a two handed technique. flogger in each hand. If the top is profecient it both feels realy nice and looks impressive

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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 4:04:15 PM   
Archer


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Trouble with trimming your own is you may trim away the ballance they were built with. It's not the fact that the work is all that tough, trimming tails is as easy as you described, the fact that the weight distribution has been altered after you have trimmed them if you have to cut off more than an inch or so.

AS far as my personal favorite for florentine, I use a very soft cowhide 2 to 3 oz, 20" falls app 32 falls each, ballanced in the neck.
Heavy enough to stay together, but light enough not to wear me out trying to move two "mop floggers".

For extra fun and games practice with two items with significantly different weights, a med flogger and a quirt for instance. With practice it can be done, with the bonus of mixing the sensation of tud and sting.

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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 4:31:49 PM   
Phin


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Archer

Trouble with trimming your own is you may trim away the ballance they were built with.

good point... I had not thought of that. Hopefully you corrected my error before someone screwed up their flogger...

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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 7:36:52 PM   
Elegant


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Archer

Trouble with trimming your own is you may trim away the ballance they were built with. It's not the fact that the work is all that tough, trimming tails is as easy as you described, the fact that the weight distribution has been altered after you have trimmed them if you have to cut off more than an inch or so.

AS far as my personal favorite for florentine, I use a very soft cowhide 2 to 3 oz, 20" falls app 32 falls each, ballanced in the neck.
Heavy enough to stay together, but light enough not to wear me out trying to move two "mop floggers".

For extra fun and games practice with two items with significantly different weights, a med flogger and a quirt for instance. With practice it can be done, with the bonus of mixing the sensation of tud and sting.


And his floggers come from http://www.fantasiesinleather.com! (he makes them...lol)

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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 12/31/2007 7:53:07 PM   
CalifChick


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quote:

ORIGINAL: SirJohnMandevill

I suppose I could Google it...but what is "Florentine" flogging? Not familiar with anything but plain ol' flogging!



I know Phin answered your question, but Wikipedia actually has a step-by-step article on two different styles of florentine:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florentine_flogging

Cali


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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 1/1/2008 8:26:09 AM   
LadyHugs


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Dear FlorentineJohn, Ladies and Gentlemen;
 
My personal favorites are floggers made by Toy Bag www.toybag.com
I am not confined to leather types and do not have a match set but, one of each type of leather.  The floggers I use, at times three floggers in each hand --yes, six in motion at a time makes a big mop of a thud impact and everything down to one in each hand; can be seen on a different site www.recon.com/Hugs it is in the profile pictures.  Having wood handles makes them very heavy however, wood does not grab/snag lace gloves if I wear them.
 
That said, Florentine flogging is rooted with the Italian swordsmen in Florence, Italy who dropped the broad sword in favor of two swords, one long and one short as to busy their enemy with the long one to entangle their enemy's one long sword and expose the body to a thrust of a sword in, using the short sword.  So, this is the root of two independent swords that had affect in what they did.
 
I think another influence has been from watching flag men at WINSTON CUP races and or NASCAR races; the most flourishing flag waving with two flags are at the finish line.
 
That said,  I encourage those who have one of each type of leather flogger collection to use the strong/harder flogger on the weak hand and the weaker/softer flogger on the strong hand.  In doing this it balances out, as the weight of the flogger compensates for the weak hand and the strong hand needs no support as far as weight goes, as people tend to hit strongly with their favored hand. 
 
I find when I hear a person talks of tails flaying out, no matter if it is deer, lamb or nubuck calf and such--it isn't the leather that is the problem-- it is the way the leather has been collected and tethered before braiding it in.  If you roll the flogger then slowest figure 8 you can do, and still flay, roll a smidge and do the slowest figure 8 you can; there will be somewhere what is called a 'sweet spot.'  Where the tails fall in alignment and will stay together even in the slowest of figure 8's.
 
Flogger mantenance is always a demand for a whip owner.  Leather will stretch and at times tails stretch out and the brother/sister tails don't stretch at all.  If you please hang the flogger in the air so it hangs down evenly, you can see if you have tails that have 'grown/stretched' then take a pair of scissors and cut as to trim the whip/flogger like 'hair bangs.' 
 
For those who like to multi-whip in Florentine-- like two whips in each hand; a twist of the wrist may/can/will determine which whip and tails hit first.  It would be similiar like hitting -1-2 with two whips, one in each hand.  However, this is where I find most braided handles with turk's heads are too broad and clunky for my hands but, I must mention my knuckle spread is 3 inches across--yes, I am petite and when I have three floggers in hands it causes looks; but, having Toy Bag's balls on the end of the handle, it acts like a ball joint and swivels in between my fingers.
 
In purchasing floggers, I do the painfully slow figure eight pattern and when tails flay out, like a finger in a light socket or shock look in comedy; I don't buy it.  Ideal floggers should be able to balance on an extended pointing/index finger tails hanging and the handle's weight would keep it from falling over and 'sits there'.  Its borrowed from the art of 'weighting shafts' on carts where the horse didn't have to have the weight of the cart, passengers and possessions on a narrow part of the back--crippling the horse's back.  The balance allowed minor weight and could pull with efficiency.  This makes a flogger light in the user's hands.  But, if you cannot find a balanced flogger and are a bit muzzle heavy, it is meant for the hand to be further back on the handle until it is balanced.  If necessary, use a chair back that is straight or a fence post, and hang fishing weights, washers and things that are weighty until you find the weight amount to cause the whip to be completely horizontal.  Then: 1)Return the flogger to the maker and ask them to add [insert amount of weight] into the back of the handle of the flogger; 2) braid the weight into the handle (under the turk's head) or 3) repair the flogger to a balanced form or 4)tape it into the flogger yourself.
 
Those whips/floggers where they are in a pre made handle, that are plugged leather floggers, like Toy Bag; they do not have a sweet spot.
 
Sensation work, making more floggers out of one-- A person like me, hates to spend money where its not necessary.  So, when I wish to create a more stingy sensation from a plush flogger, I pull several tails back and tuck it under my gripping hand.  I can also pull all but nine (9) tails back and have a 'politically correct' 9-tail; it can be where I pull all but 1 or 2 tails back and make a single tail or viper/quirt sensation.  This works for those who flog with just 1 hand or in Florentine.  This can save you time changing whips and gives more flexibility.  For example leave one hand with all the tails down and striking; the other pull half back and strike with the other half.
 
What I enjoy about Florentine flogging, is the flexibility and works both your arms equally--if one tires, the other can continue as you rest the tired hand.  One can go up to the slave and if you have long tail floggers can flog around as you hug, the tails of the floggers will wrap around and slap/pat on the nipples of the slave.  In single tail you see this more as the TOP doesn't have to hug so close in.  But, it can be done.  If a TOP wishes to do what is called 'blind' flogging, to take two floggers and go up to the slave front and wrap the tails onto the back or buttocks.  A 'tip' if you will; if the TOP uses the nipples as to lineup their arms as the wrap the whip around as to hit the back --they will have it properly hitting on the back.  Wrists must be in line to the arm.  Lower or cocked wrists down will cause kidney shots. 
 
I also enjoy being able to flog the back as well as the buttocks same time --not in figure eight but, independent targeting back with one hand and buttocks with another--then switch hands and they get a sensation switch.
 
There are great things to do with Florentine, when you have two slaves or more--One off set to a kneeling position and the other standing, one whip can get the back of the kneeling and the other hit the back of the standing.  I have done several multiple slave configurations and could write a book per se on how I did things. 
 
I have also Florentine caned and single tailed in addition to flogging.  All wonderful.



 
Just some thoughts.
 
Respectfully submitted for consideration,
Lady Hugs

< Message edited by LadyHugs -- 1/1/2008 8:57:15 AM >

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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 1/1/2008 12:11:30 PM   
Elegant


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quote:

ORIGINAL: LadyHugs

.....Ideal floggers should be able to balance on an extended pointing/index finger tails hanging and the handle's weight would keep it from falling over and 'sits there'.


Balance is the point at which the weight of the handle equals the weight of the tails. Balance is important so that when swinging the flogger with the hand on the middle of the handle it does not work the wrist too hard. A properly balanced flogger also enables to Top to lay the lashes more precisely on a desired location on the body. The handle and the turkshead knot or other finishing embellishment on the end of the handle often counterbalances the falls.

The most common point of balance is in the neck of the flogger. The neck is where the lashes attach to the handle. However it is less important that the point of balance always be at the neck than it is that the point of balance be consistently in the same part of the handle on all your floggers. It is that consistent placement of the point of balance that makes a consistent throw easier.  This creates muscle memory and makes it possible to throw the flogger the most accurately with the least amount of stress on the wrist, arm and shoulder. If the point of balance is one forth the distance from the neck to the end of the handle in all of your floggers then you are still going to have the same benefits as if they were all in the neck.



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RE: Best floggers for Florentine flogging? - 1/1/2008 3:05:01 PM   
Leatherist


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I used to make Heartwood style ones with the round knots. I hate those cylindrical knots-I cannot hold them in the palms of my hand comfortably. Takes more work to weave the pinealpe knots-but I would also smooth the lacing by hammering it down with a polished ball peen hameer-to give a nice smooth covering. Then I could let the lanyard lay around the inside of my wrists-and it would act like a ball and socket joint, allowing very fine control.

My fall prefferences were heavy elkhide-usually about 22 5/8 by 20 inch long. Balance point was the center of the front knot. I need to make more.

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