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Elegant -> RE: Non Bleach Cleaning? (7/21/2008 5:53:45 PM)
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(I can never get my Word documents to C&P correctly into CollarMe...argggggg...)
Safer Sex Includes Having Clean Toys
Disinfect and Sanitize are fancy words for clean. Clean is a relative term.
- Sanitize: to free from dirt as by cleaning
- Disinfect: The use of a chemical procedure that eliminates virtually all recognized pathogenic microorganisms but not necessarily all microbial forms on inanimate objects. Disinfection is often confused with sterilization, but they are not the same thing. Disinfection does not remove all microbes, nor does it eliminate spores. Disinfection is generally used on hard surfaces (counter tops, etc.), but may not be sufficient for tools/toys that come in contact (including indirect contact) with the body.
- High-level Disinfect: Destruction of all microorganisms, with the exception of high numbers of bacterial spores.
- Sterilize: To destroy all living microorganisms, as pathogenic or saprophytic bacteria, vegetative forms, and spores. Sterile is an absolute; something is either sterile or it is not. There is no in-between.
LEATHER
Because materials like leather, cloth and hair are porous, they provide a more pathogen-friendly environment for organisms to survive in. Complete sterilization is more difficult, and by hospital standards of real sterility, basically impossible.
Some people recommend wiping leather with a 10% bleach solution but it must be noted that this will not provide sterilization or high-level disinfection to leather. Most laboratory studies using bleach and antibacterial wipes to sterilize have been applied to less porous and degradable substances than leather.
Dr. Charles Moser, a nation’s leading authorities on sexuality-related medicine recommends hanging up floggers and other leather toys in a ventilated place for at least one week after use. Recent studies have shown that HIV and Hep C viruses cannot live outside the body in the air for that length of time.
WOOD, PLASTIC, METAL AND OTHER MATERIALS
Cleaning is a necessary first step to sterilize because many soils will reduce the effectiveness of a sanitizer or disinfectant. According to the Center for Disease Control: “The actual physical removal of microorganisms by scrubbing is probably as important, if not more so, than any antimicrobial effect of the cleaning agent used”.
A mild sodium hypochlorite solution (10% household bleach and 90% water) will provide high-level disinfection for plastic, metal and other non-porous surfaces if soaked for a minimum of 15 minutes after surface cleaning. For a quart of solution this is equivalent to slightly less than a ½ cup of household bleach with the remainder of the quart filled with water. This must be prepared daily and not used for future sanitizing after 24 hours, as the solution will become ineffective.
Even at full strength, bleach does not sanitize wood (ie: paddles). The sterilization quality of bleach is neutralized by the organic composition of wood. Wood paddles without a polyurethane coating actually absorb the bacteria into the wood as do paddles with a chipped or cracked polyurethane coating. After the wood has been surface cleaned and dried, the bacteria near the surface dies. The wood near the surface forms a hostile environment for bacteria to live in. There are lots of bacteria living in the board, but about 1/8” below the surface. This is deep enough that it is unlikely to release bacteria unless the wood splits.
Toys made of some kinds of rubber, cloth or synthetic fiber, such as the nylon cracker on a singletail, may stand up reasonably well to up to a 20% or even 25% solution of bleach and water, but may degrade over time. It is a good idea to wash these toys with soap and water to remove traces of the bleach solution after soaking. Some toys may be autoclaved if real sterility is desired.
NOTE: Many drug treatment clinics are moving way from bleach sterilization because new research shows that in some cases it doesn’t kill Hepatitis, and sometimes doesn’t even kill the relatively fragile AIDS virus.
‘MIRACLE’ PRODUCTS
Antibacterial Soaps/Detergents
The products usually contain triclosan (Chloroxylenol (PCMX), Quaternary Ammonium Chlorides (Quats), or Alcohols which can damage your leather by sucking out its moisture. Triclosan is also known as Irgasan and Microban. Dishwashing detergents contain fragrances, dyes and preservatives, all which only add unnecessary and possibly harmful substances to your leather. Dishwasing liquids are usually detergents as opposed to soaps. Soaps are made of materials found in nature. Detergents are synthetic (although some of the ingredients are natural). Detergents are made from petroleum products and consist mainly of surfactants, foaming agents and alcohols. Since these chemicals have a disagreeable odor, detergents are usually heavily scented with cheap, synthetic, artificial fragrances.
Antibacterial Wipes/Sprays
These are made to kill staphylococcus aureus and most bacteria on hard, nonporous surfaces. Leather is porous. Directions on these wipes/sprays instruct to thoroughly wet the surface and allow surface to remain wet for 10 minutes before use. In addition, although some of these wipes and sprays are targeted to disinfect (when used as directed) up to 99.9% of Staph and Salmonella and also target cold and flu viruses they may not be capable of destroying other viruses. Pre-cleaning soiled surfaces is also necessary to disinfect properly, since science tells us that many types of soils will deactivate disinfectants. (Note: Informed risk when using these products to supposedly sterilize and/or disinfect dungeon furniture)
Rubbing Alcohol/Isopropyl Alcohol
Rubbing alcohol will low level disinfect some non-porous items but most of the microbes we worry about (things like Hepatitis) aren't going to be killed using rubbing alcohol.
Staphene Spray Environmental Disinfectant
A hospital product for use on non-porous environmental surfaces. It is not a sterilant or high-level disinfectant. It does not kill Staphylococcus epidermis or Hepatitis A, B, C. It must be allowed to remain wet on the surface for 10 minutes and air dry.
CHEMICAL HIGH-LEVEL DISENFECTION AND STERALIZATION PRODUCTS
Cidex
High-level disinfection in 12 minutes at 20 degrees Celsius (room temperature) with total immersion manual processing. http://sterrad.com
Sporox
High-level disinfection in 30 minutes at 20 degrees Celsius (room temperature) with total immersion manual processing. http://www.sultanintl.com
Metrex Compliance
High-level disinfection in 15 minutes at 20 degrees Celsius (room temperature) with total immersion. Sterilization in 3 hours at 20 degrees Celsius (room temperature) with total immersion. http://www.metrex.com
Caviwipes
A high-level disinfectant wipe for use on non-porous surfaces. It is not a sterilant. It does not kill Staphylococcus epidermis or Hepatitis A. Only effective if there is 3+ minutes of direct contact with the pre-moistened wipe. http://www.metrex.com
RESOURCES
http://www.cdc.gov
http://www.ogs.state.ny.us/bldgadmin/environmental/RestrictDisinfectants.rtf
[/link] [link=http://bmezine.com/]http://bmezine.com
http://www.hhp.ufl.edu/faculty/pbird/keepingfit/ARTICLE/BOARDS.HTM
http://www.issm.info
http://www.osha.gov
DISCLAIMER: The information in this article is provided for general information purposes and may not be relied on as a substitute for actual professional medical advice, care or treatment. This article is not a substitute for professional medical evaluation, advise, diagnosis or treatment
COPYRIGHT 2006 – 2008. Elegant, Fantasies In Leather, LLC.
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