Soundproofing

Soundproofing (Full Version)

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angelique510 -> Soundproofing (8/31/2008 2:41:56 PM)
Greetings. We are interested in purchasing a manufactured (HUD) home. It would suit us very well - except for the acoustics of the construction. You can hear someone talking in a normal voice at the far side of the house, about 50 feet away. Not only is this not conducive to normal everyday living - we don't want to hear the kids watching Sponge Bob in their bedrooms, or worry about waking other family member who are on a different sleep schedule - we have other concerns about sounds carrying, that I'm sure you folks can well understand ;) The home had easily removable wall paneling throughout. So that part is easy, but what do I put in the walls to dampen sound? Do any of you have suggestions on how to soundproof the place? What have you tried? What has worked and has not worked? What kind of expense might I be looking at to fix this? I appreciate any advice you may have. Thank you. Be well. ~A

azropedntied -> RE: Soundproofing (8/31/2008 3:10:10 PM)
head to a home improvement store ,go to building materials and get sound board , its easy enough to install just make sure you dont screw it into wires existing in the wall , find the studs . " nooo not those studs , the wall studs " . If you want it completely sound proof do like recording studios do and add foam .Not as good looking thick moving blankets also work when hung on the walls and windows .if your doing a deticated room right , remove the wooden paneling , stuff it with rolled insulation , apply drywall , then soundboard , test , then add foam if needed . A dual or thick pane window too .Your only weak point will be your interior door as they ar most often hollow . getting a solid core door with a draft gaurd should just about do it .

CalifChick -> RE: Soundproofing (8/31/2008 3:17:06 PM)
Ask them if something called "staggered stud walls" is an option. Basically, the walls are about twice as thick, and the studs alternate from one wall to the other, with soundproofing insulation in between. If not, you can put up a false wall butted up to the existing wall, with soundproofing in between. You'll need a bit of electrical experience to move the outlets to the new wall. Change out the hollow-core doors to solid core doors, and put in door sweeps at the bottom, like this: http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/soundproofing_doors.htm You want as much soft surface as possible, to absorb sound. Carpeting absorbs sound better than hard flooring. You can also quilt your walls (the original "padded room"). Here is one example of how to do it: http://www.bhg.com/homekeeping/fabric-walls/?page=4 Cali

pompeii -> RE: Soundproofing (8/31/2008 3:43:32 PM)
Ball gags. Bit gags. Cloth gags. Ring gags. They're all excellent sound-proofing for portable applications.

DesFIP -> RE: Soundproofing (8/31/2008 3:46:29 PM)
Suggestions in this article. http://www.articlecity.com/articles/home_improvement/article_1282.shtml I have to figure if it worked to allow a garage band, then intimate activities would be easy in comparison.

azropedntied -> RE: Soundproofing (8/31/2008 5:47:06 PM)
OK but what about whip cracks ?flogger noise? hand spanks and paddle whacks ?gags are fine for diminished oral expressions but not what caused them , and trailers and apartments have thin walls .So do hotels but its not like your living there for long , besides you may have interesting elevator gazes . quote: ORIGINAL: pompeii Ball gags. Bit gags. Cloth gags. Ring gags. They're all excellent sound-proofing for portable applications.

msprudence -> RE: Soundproofing (8/31/2008 6:15:19 PM)
A Cheap-ish solution= Foam bed pads and Velvet Curtains. I've known several dommes who had apartments in SF and NY who worried about their neighbors and screams- so they did put up foam using a staple gun- everywhere. Then they covered it in Velvet curtains. You have to do overlays on the doors and the hit the floor too, or it doesn't work.

Daddyssweetpea -> RE: Soundproofing (8/31/2008 7:58:22 PM)
would that liquid foam insulation stuff work?

azropedntied -> RE: Soundproofing (8/31/2008 8:56:43 PM)
liquid expansion foam would be very messy , prob not the way to go .There are company's that have spray foams yet still messy and $$$ .

MzMia -> RE: Soundproofing (8/31/2008 9:35:38 PM)
I love this thread, I am lucky my old house has a wooded area on one side and in the back. I am writing down some tips. Question: If you scream in a soundproof room, and no one hears you, is it really a scream? [:D]

Prinsexx -> RE: Soundproofing (9/1/2008 1:46:14 AM)
Learning to be a good silent girl is one of the best answers. Silence is golden as the song says. Being in the type of household you talk about makes so-called edge play (needles and knives, asphyxiation) easy but whips, crops canes and smacking difficult. I like 24/7 in a house like that.......[:D]

d1ll1gaf -> RE: Soundproofing (9/1/2008 2:40:01 AM)
Without actually seeing your home it is impossible to give a precise method of sound proofing a bedroom. However, all sound proofing techniques operate on the same principle. Sound transmits much better through air than through solid or liquid objects (think about screaming under water). This means that sound enters/escapes your bedroom through the following sources: 1) Right through the walls. Modern construction (especially modular construction) utilizes stud walls with hollow internal cavities. These cavities can actually act as a sound amplifier just like a drum. Filling them with any material will cut down on sound transfer, although the thicker & heavier the material the better. Just make sure you don't damage or over insulate any electrical wires or plumbing in the walls 2) If your home has either a drop ceiling or a crawl space under all of the rooms, sound will travel through them. Putting insulation in these areas will radically reduce sound transfer 3) If your home has duct work (for heat or air), the ducts themselves will transfer sound between rooms. These are ticker to soundproof because you don't want to impede air transfer while reducing sound. The best product I have ever seen for these is a commercial expansion joint. It is basically a piece of fabric duct work that attaches inline with the rest of your ducting. While sound can bounce around within metal duct work, the fabric doesn't vibrate the same and thus absorbs most of the sound. 4) The room door. Most inside doors are hollow-core, and provide minimal sound insulation. Consider either installing a solid wood door, or filling you hollow-core door with spray foam. Also consider putting weather sealing gaskets around the door (to keep out sound not weather of course).

DarkSteven -> RE: Soundproofing (9/1/2008 4:52:21 AM)
quote: ORIGINAL: MzMia Question: If you scream in a soundproof room, and no one hears you, is it really a scream? [:D] If it isn't, it doesn't count. Whack him/her again.

CruelDesires -> RE: Soundproofing (9/1/2008 5:07:45 AM)
Thick carpets and throw rugs also help to absorb sound. C-D

PsyVamp -> RE: Soundproofing (9/1/2008 6:18:57 AM)
quote: 3) If your home has duct work (for heat or air), the ducts themselves will transfer sound between rooms. These are ticker to soundproof because you don't want to impede air transfer while reducing sound. The best product I have ever seen for these is a commercial expansion joint. It is basically a piece of fabric duct work that attaches inline with the rest of your ducting. While sound can bounce around within metal duct work, the fabric doesn't vibrate the same and thus absorbs most of the sound. As d1ll1gaf said, ducts are probably going to be the one thing you overlook with all the other great advice.... Please take this one seriously. As a child I used to eavesdrop on some intersting household conversation through the duct system... (no, it isn't something I indulge in as an adult)

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