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gmikeisbad -> Male chastity belt $40 / 2hrs DIY (12/23/2009 8:41:19 PM)
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Materials cost $40 and time under 2 hours. Tools Drill (can be cheap hand crank drill) with an 8mm Diameter bit Tin snips or good garden shears A block of wood to drill on Box cutter knife Tape measure / Ruler Liquid paper pen or light coloured sharpy Some PVC gaffer tape. Materials (from a big hardware store or supacheap auto) 50 mm (2”) diameter rubber tube 300mm (1’) long at least (enough to make a mistake) 12 large (100mm diameter or more) hose clamps (the shiny chrome screw fastening kind use on car radiators) 2.5M of clear PVC or any colour rubber tube (about 15mm internal diameter – enough to poke the hose clamp through One brass or chrome padlock with four keys. 6 small nut and bolts (4-8 mm shaft) with rounded screwdriver heads 10 Assorted washers (to fit bolts) Optional – replace tube wrap with a neoprene belt backing to lower the profile. Silicone based glue (shower glue) Neoprene sheet (0.8M x 0.5M) In a nutshell we are making just the bare bones (pun intended) so that you can add what you want over the top. When complete it will look like the neosteel belt a little. It’s the kind with a upward facing sheath that holds everything in flat and a locks up the front. The shaft goes into a tube and the balls hang through a hole at the base of that tube to stop the shaft moving out. Add-ons like “D” ring shackles will make it more adaptable, but that’s up to you to decide. As is, it can by cut off relatively easily but you can add a metal cover after you are satisfied with fit and safety. Take a look at some images of other belts and you will get a good understanding of what your will look like and where al the parts go. It is possible to substitute plastic cable ties to make a travel airport safe version but it will be disposable and not so much cheaper. Also you will need that glue. I guess you could make it first in all plastic to see if it had it right before you made the metal version if you are that kind of perfectionist… I am…. sad really. The waistband is three or four hose clamps unwound then daisy-chained together. You do this by opening the clamp as far as possible then pulling the loop until it opens. Then just feed in the thin end of one into the fastener with the bolt on it of the next one. Make a string not complete loop. Slide some thin tube over it so that the belt you made is 100% inside the tube (protecting from pinching or scratches from the metal). Use the same method to make two loops to go from back to front. These loops will cross over half way between front and back. These are the outside of the brief section and should be long enough to easily reach front to back going around all your bits and not covering the main rear opening. Think of the elastic in underwear, it goes around the wais but also along the outer edge, down under and through. Don’t worry about making things too long – you can shorten by just turning the screw fasteners. Making things longer is an issue. Use some tape to hold it all together. Check you have enough room for everything and tape the crossover point. Carefully take off the belt without disturbing the tape. Where you have taped your “strings” together drill through so you make a hole for the bolts to do the job the tape was. Now you have the ghost of the belt but no restricted access so to speak. The holes at the back are for the crews and one hole at the front should join the belt like a belt buckle but also attach one of the loops that go to the back and cross over around your “equipment’. Take that larger diameter rubber tube and cut the ends straight and neat. Make out with you pen a 50mm line down the centre away from the top end. Cut the line and mark a line a quarter the way around the tube from each side of the tube and drill a hole were it ends. Cut to the hole so that you open the tube up like a “T”. Now you should have a tube with an opened out end with a hole in each side of the flaps. Measure down 100mm 150mm and mark it on the same side. As if you are going to make the same thing again. Do it again. Cut a line along the centre line and then drill and cut to the holes and finally cut the end off. You should have made a fat “H” shape. The four flaps are to secure the tube to the loops making the front of the device. Choose one end of the H tube and cut an X in the centre of the flaps. Cut away the triangles of the X to make a diamond shaped hole. Some fitting is required at this point. You need a hole big enough for one ball to poke through. Grab some loose folds and feed them through the hole until you have built up some slack then try to poke the ball through. If it wont go you need to widen your hole. It’s best to leave about 1cm or rubber around the edge of the hole so cut accordingly. When you have a successful poke through tidy up the hole to make it smooth. Cut a 3cm notch out of the tube near the hole you just made. If you can’t visualize that, try to put the shaft in and then feed your balls through you will see the need to remove some of the tube. Put it all on and tape the sheath to the belt. Take it off carefully and drill through the tape, through the flaps into the loops. Fasten with bolts. You are done! Put it back on, first you need to load the shaft into the sheath and then poke the balls through one at a time. Then add the padlock to close the belt. Once on, try to remove it by wriggling and pulling, if you come free too easily you need to tighten up some of the hose clamps. If you loose the keys the safest way to remove it is to undo the bolts. This will be very difficult and take a long time. In and emergency just cut through the flaps. This will free you relatively quickly, but not always painlessly.
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