Input from fucking machine users (Full Version)

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txironhead -> Input from fucking machine users (8/1/2012 10:37:28 PM)

I've been slowly gathering the materials to build a fucking machine. The plan is to make both speed and penetration depth adjustable, portable discreet design, "dead man switch" and possibly some other goodies.

What I would like is input from people that have used various fucking machines, from "drilldoes" all the way to the fancy high-dollar units. Pros, cons, things you would have designed differently, what your favorite was, etc. The good, bad, and ugly. If you built your own machine, what were the greatest obstacles? Advice is greatly appreciated.



SpaceSpank -> RE: Input from fucking machine users (8/2/2012 2:32:41 PM)

I've never built one, but you may want to make sure that if you are using anything that produces enough power to be dangerous, that you also include a mechanism that will either disengage the motor or cut the power if it encounters any real resistance. This will ensure that if the user is unable to adjust the speed/depth fast enough they won't find themselves penetrated in a way they really were not looking for.

The other design challenges would really depend on the nature of the machine itself, there's a crazy amount of variations you can build. That would be my first goal... once you decide on the rough design of it, you can look at the challenges it would present.



Buzzzz -> RE: Input from fucking machine users (8/4/2012 9:21:57 AM)

Needs to be portable and sturdy. I use a sawzaw. Works great except that the voltage has to be dropped (lowest speed is too fast) and stroke isn't deep enough. If one could modify the stoke in it and make is 3" or so, that would be great :)



SpaceSpank -> RE: Input from fucking machine users (8/4/2012 9:31:53 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: Buzzzz

Needs to be portable and sturdy. I use a sawzaw. Works great except that the voltage has to be dropped (lowest speed is too fast) and stroke isn't deep enough. If one could modify the stoke in it and make is 3" or so, that would be great :)


I'd say the portable is debatable, especially if it's a permanent fixture in a dungeon or such. There have been some machines I've seen that are massive contraptions.

The sturdy is an absolute must however. You would NOT want one of these things flying apart in use. If you're designing it with any stresses and weight specific calculations, make sure to err well on the side of caution.



Irishm57 -> RE: Input from fucking machine users (8/5/2012 4:28:01 AM)

i made a fucking chair years ago, and the biggest issue is finding a motor with enough torque at low speeds. i cant remember off hand but it was like a minimum of 280 inch ounces of torque to hmm push enough. it had a speed of up to 60 rpm

I used a 12 volt DC gear motor. and where the rods ball joint attached to the disc i sloted it so the throw could be adjustable between 4 and 7 inches.

You might want to look into linear actuators at the surplus center, those are easier to mount and you can adjust the limit switches on some to get you throw adjustment. i bought 2 of them but never got around to rebuilding the chair with them

here is a few pics of it in the early stages before covering
http://www.slavechris.com/Files/Chair/Chair.html

hope this helps




fetdrvnbiker -> RE: Input from fucking machine users (8/6/2012 11:34:19 AM)

I've built one. The motor was from an old treadmill, so it had speed controls and the wiring already done. There also was a switch for turning the machine off, if you stepped too far back, which made a handy emergency kill switch. My one regret is that I used a flat base(2"x4") for suction cup toys (we already had one, plus several more available locally). The base works well until lube gets on the surface, then it becomes an Abott and Costello scene (not very Dominant or sexy). I mounted it all on an ironing board, that had the ability to lay flat on the ground up to about 38" off the floor in adjustable increments.

-I would deffinitely go the vaculock route, if I was starting over again.
-Set the stroke length 2"-3" shorter than the toy length.
-If it is not completely encased in a box, a longer arm for the toy to be attached to, is nice for creating distance between the machine and body parts.
-Eliminate as much noise as you can.
-I recomend combining with a Hitachi Magic Wand and a horse/bench!
-Build it the way you want it to look the first time. I built mine as a rough prototype, to get it done quickly and haven't gone back to make it look good. I wished I would have painted it and spent a little extra time designing the looks of it.

[image]local://upfiles/1455994/C7D9A54953064C1888EC9BC241158829.jpg[/image]



xssve -> RE: Input from fucking machine users (8/6/2012 1:00:22 PM)

A flywheel design poses some interesting problems, which are resolved in linear motors, but they aren't cheap - stroke depth in a flywheel design is limited to the diameter of the flywheel (which is why you can't modify a sawzall - to get a 3" stroke length you need a 3" flywheel).

You could mount the shaft to the flywheel on an adjustable rail, but since it's spinning around, the adjustment apparatus would have to be wireless, or the wires would just twist up.

And, ideally, you would need to be able to adjust stoke length and stroke depth independently, which means a total of three motors, the drive motor, and at least two smaller auxiliary motors or servos, one of which probably needs to be RC.

I've amassed quite a collection of hardware, including several DC motors, Two out of an electric wheelchair, and several pancake motors, out of scooters, etc. (those electric cars for children have DC pancake motors), and several types of linear adjustment mechanisms, I just haven't had to me to turn it into a working model.




txironhead -> RE: Input from fucking machine users (8/6/2012 10:26:17 PM)

This is exactly the kind of input I was hoping for!

Safety features: Right off the bat there was going to be a fuse, if the resistance exceeded the amperage level, POP!
Also, I had given thought to some kind of "shear pin" setup on the shaft, but that would be a lot of trial and error to design right. Also, built-in emergency kill switch, dead-man style.

I also have a treadmill motor, complete with speed control. However, the motor does have a very large, heavy flywheel. In case of emergency, cutting the power (either automatically with the fuse or manually with the kill switch) would still allow the momentum of the flywheel to continue to turn for a little while. I'm planning on taking the flywheel off and replacing it with something lighter. The depth adjustments will be on the flywheel, holes drilled in increments and threaded for a bolt with a knob head. At least that's the general idea.

The design I have in mind is similar to the "toolbox" fuck machines, and will have a removable shaft that fits inside the box, probably threaded sections so the shaft can be lengthened or shortened depending on circumstances. I also plan on adjustable legs on the side that the shaft exits for variable angle.

I've read in several sites that the electric wheelchair motors are ideal for these machines, as long as you have the proper speed controller and power converter. But they're not easy to come across outside of Ebay. And some have suggested windshield wiper gearmotors, but I've found those to be seriously underpowered.

You can do a wired adjustment motor, I've got a few ideas there. That's much later in the refinement stage.

I never would have thought of using an ironing board. Stroke of genius with materials at hand! I'd already decided to go with the Vac-u-lock, it seems to be an "industry standard" and pretty reliable. And with the threaded setup I've planned, I can always swap out the Vac adapter with a flat plate with straps for traditional dildos or no straps for the suction type. Or get real diabolical and bolt up a dual penetrator.......



Buzzzz -> RE: Input from fucking machine users (8/8/2012 2:32:54 PM)

I see lots of them build with a windshield wiper motor. Add. The variable wiper switch that was on the steering column, a 12V battery or transformer and you have a nice little package. You can adjust the stoke by adjusting the length of the arm on the wiper motor. Heck, just add cruise control , power steering and a/c and you got a new ride !!!



limpshorty -> RE: Input from fucking machine users (8/8/2012 10:27:11 PM)

build your deadman switch so that when engaged, it hold a brake in the off position. Loss of power to the brake releases it to stop the device immediately. That way, the on controls can operated by someone else, and the deadman functions as a safe word.

limpshorty



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