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CeliaRose -> Whip Classes (8/4/2006 5:57:10 PM)

::blushes:: This may sound a tad ridiculous, but I really want to learn how to use a whip. I say ridiculous because I'm a submissive and don't have an actual reason for one, my Dom doesn't even use one, but he figures, there's no harm in me knowing. I'm looking at it more for some type of target practice.

Now... are there any such thing as whip classes? I've never used one before, but I'm going to take a wild guess and assume that just playing around with one is NOT a good idea. ;)

So my question... do you use a whip and how did you learn?

-Mandy



beenwhipped -> RE: Whip Classes (8/4/2006 6:00:56 PM)

baloons are good targets. start with full ones then back off on the amount of air to make smaller targets



CeliaRose -> RE: Whip Classes (8/4/2006 6:06:23 PM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: beenwhipped

baloons are good targets. start with full ones then back off on the amount of air to make smaller targets


Makes sense. Thanks. :D



Estring -> RE: Whip Classes (8/4/2006 7:15:57 PM)

I know there are classes in whipping out there. There are also insructional videos and dvds available. I'm sure someone will come up with more information.



LadyHugs -> RE: Whip Classes (8/4/2006 7:45:35 PM)

Dear CeliaRose, Ladies and Gentlemen;
 
There is no shame in submissives learning the art of the whips and canes and or, anything 'corporal.'
 
Whip cracking skills, can be found in Western Rodeo/Trick whipping CD-Rom videos, that address single tail and bullwhip work.  Bob Deegan use to travel about giving workshops on single tails.
 
I have mentored a good many dominants on the use of floggers, single tails, canes and more. The question is, which form of whip will you first be handling before you get all side-tracked with other forms of whips.
 
In my first stage of mentoring, I have a student take a long cane or a dressage whip which is approximately the same length of a flogger fully extended without the weight or worry about tails splaying due to the lack of energy.  By seeing how little shoulder action is required and the secret is in the wrists by doing a slow figure eight from shoulder blades to the most highest point of the buttocks--the discovery of technique is 'spot on'  By training your eye to the target areas and knowing that shoulders and buttocks are not a straight line, to have your legs slightly apart and slightly one forward of the other.  To hit targets that are further away, your technique needs not to be adjusted--just move or shift your weight to the front foot.  You will move forward to hit spot on without dancing to different positions every time you send a stroke of the whip.  If the portion of the body sits closer to you, shift your weight to the back leg and the whole body moves back the needed measure as to maintain the stroke and not have more leather/tails/length of the flogger or other whip on the body of the 'victim.'  You can see this by belting a bed pillow onto a chair's back and then take a length of string with weight and hold it under the grip of the flogger.  By shifting your weight you can see as proof, that just mere shift of weight to either front foot, back foot or staying in the middle/original position--you have adjustment to the whip strokes and how much of the tails you have falling on the skin.  From a gentle brush, to a 'hand' (approximately 3 inches of leather of a flogger's tails), you'll be able to take the art on quickly.
 
Basic strokes, for floggers--you will want to stroke upwards on buttocks and down strokes on shoulders.  If you have your victim roll their shoulders slightly back, the meat of the back will pop up and the spine lowers.  If the back is round, the spine will be up and taking impact.  For the person who is flogging, useing a angle stroke like in the letter V, you can widen the "V" as to be more \ / as to miss the kidney and floating rib area of the victim.  If you open a book, like a "V" you can see your hands naturally take well to the technique and stroke all the way through.  Back hand and forehand, such as ------
if you have your body at the same position of the victim's hip; you'll have the flogger hit squarely on the shoulders or buttocks.  If you have your weak hand resting on the neck of the victim, swing the flogger across your chest--not only will you protect your victim's neck but, you won't wrap the person. Meaning the flogger tails won't hit under their arms and around the sides of the rib cage.
 
Another 'whip tip' -- is holding the whip with a loose or relaxed hand.  You won't be as tired from gripping.  Also, if you close your hand; the whip will recoil smoothly approximately 3 inches.  This can be proven again by tying a rope or belt around the back of the chair, put the rope in an open palm and then close it and the rope will loose the slack.  You can also hold firm one side and finger pinch the rope, leather and can see the travel.  Equestrians and those who drive horses know this as 'quiet hands.'  From a gallop, a rider by closing their hands can bring a horse down to a walk.
 
Some whip tips transfer nicely from floggers to single tails and or canes.
 
Just takes practice lass, take your time and you'll be fine.

Respectfully submitted for consideration,
Lady Hugs



CeliaRose -> RE: Whip Classes (8/4/2006 7:59:10 PM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: LadyHugs

Dear CeliaRose, Ladies and Gentlemen;
 
There is no shame in submissives learning the art of the whips and canes and or, anything 'corporal.'
 
Whip cracking skills, can be found in Western Rodeo/Trick whipping CD-Rom videos, that address single tail and bullwhip work.  Bob Deegan use to travel about giving workshops on single tails.
 
I have mentored a good many dominants on the use of floggers, single tails, canes and more. The question is, which form of whip will you first be handling before you get all side-tracked with other forms of whips.
 
In my first stage of mentoring, I have a student take a long cane or a dressage whip which is approximately the same length of a flogger fully extended without the weight or worry about tails splaying due to the lack of energy.  By seeing how little shoulder action is required and the secret is in the wrists by doing a slow figure eight from shoulder blades to the most highest point of the buttocks--the discovery of technique is 'spot on'  By training your eye to the target areas and knowing that shoulders and buttocks are not a straight line, to have your legs slightly apart and slightly one forward of the other.  To hit targets that are further away, your technique needs not to be adjusted--just move or shift your weight to the front foot.  You will move forward to hit spot on without dancing to different positions every time you send a stroke of the whip.  If the portion of the body sits closer to you, shift your weight to the back leg and the whole body moves back the needed measure as to maintain the stroke and not have more leather/tails/length of the flogger or other whip on the body of the 'victim.'  You can see this by belting a bed pillow onto a chair's back and then take a length of string with weight and hold it under the grip of the flogger.  By shifting your weight you can see as proof, that just mere shift of weight to either front foot, back foot or staying in the middle/original position--you have adjustment to the whip strokes and how much of the tails you have falling on the skin.  From a gentle brush, to a 'hand' (approximately 3 inches of leather of a flogger's tails), you'll be able to take the art on quickly.
 
Basic strokes, for floggers--you will want to stroke upwards on buttocks and down strokes on shoulders.  If you have your victim roll their shoulders slightly back, the meat of the back will pop up and the spine lowers.  If the back is round, the spine will be up and taking impact.  For the person who is flogging, useing a angle stroke like in the letter V, you can widen the "V" as to be more \ / as to miss the kidney and floating rib area of the victim.  If you open a book, like a "V" you can see your hands naturally take well to the technique and stroke all the way through.  Back hand and forehand, such as ------
if you have your body at the same position of the victim's hip; you'll have the flogger hit squarely on the shoulders or buttocks.  If you have your weak hand resting on the neck of the victim, swing the flogger across your chest--not only will you protect your victim's neck but, you won't wrap the person. Meaning the flogger tails won't hit under their arms and around the sides of the rib cage.
 
Another 'whip tip' -- is holding the whip with a loose or relaxed hand.  You won't be as tired from gripping.  Also, if you close your hand; the whip will recoil smoothly approximately 3 inches.  This can be proven again by tying a rope or belt around the back of the chair, put the rope in an open palm and then close it and the rope will loose the slack.  You can also hold firm one side and finger pinch the rope, leather and can see the travel.  Equestrians and those who drive horses know this as 'quiet hands.'  From a gallop, a rider by closing their hands can bring a horse down to a walk.
 
Some whip tips transfer nicely from floggers to single tails and or canes.
 
Just takes practice lass, take your time and you'll be fine.

Respectfully submitted for consideration,
Lady Hugs


Thanks you very much, Lady Hugs.



LadyHugs -> RE: Whip Classes (8/4/2006 8:46:16 PM)

Dear CeliaRose, Ladies and Gentlemen;
 
Just in case you won't be using floggers, I'll cover single tails in this portion of the reply section.
 
Again, with beginners the real need is judgement of distance.  For some reason humans have a trait to lean forward, no matter if single tails or floggers.  This is why shifting on the feet can adjust the whip strikes to the target.

With single tails, due to the cracker/popper speed alone will cut into the skin faster than many tails of a flogger.  A poor man's single tail, is pulling all but 1 piece back under the hand's grip of the flogger's handle. 

When using a single tail, I recommend using your thumb much like a guide or gun sight, cocking your thumb out away from you the single tail and most other multiple tail whip, e.g. flogger, cat o nines will land on your shoulder or away from it entirely.  Better than hitting you in the face.  But, for beginners it won't be a bad idea to wear safety goggles. 

There are two major single tail styles.  Westcoast and Eastcoast (For American whip work vocabulary).  Westcoast is off the shoulder and straight on.  The wearing of a leather vest, gives it a wee bit of friction as to give it a bit of drag and like throwing darts or in archery, to throw/send the single tail forward to the target.  Like an arrow, the single tail and arrow shafts wobble so, it is not a good habit to watch the whip go off the shoulder but, keep your eye on the target.  Interesting though, the single tail's braiding does stretch out the more strength or power behind the stroke so a 3 foot signal whip for example will stretch with energy to 3 foot and a few inches.  Leather stretches--that is a fact.  When it comes off the shoulder it rolls like a carpet out and flops down.  In slow motion you can see this occur.  Using a loose hand, should you need to recall the whip--just close your hand tight and it will come back off the victim's body approxmiately 3 inches.  Although the Westcoast style is nothing new, in Europe where dungeons are in the attic, the pitch of the roof created this style.

Eastcoast style, is side to side.  In Europe the dungeons in some areas are in the cellar, basement to which the roof is low and doesn't permit strokes off the shoulder well so, side strokes were adopted.
Much like a horse's tail, the whip is centered to your body, your hand is the 'root' of the energy and the swing of the single tail is side to side, east-west/west-east.  In this stroke, I have a roll of toilet tissue that is new, start it a bit and let it hang like a bolt of material and then I softly stroke the tissue as to roll it off and around the roll and return it back without tearing into the tissue.  If you slice it, it means you're to strong with it.  The real skill is finesse`-- Unwrap the toilet tissue and wrap it again.  Only the bangs or the fray ends of the cracker/popper should be touching the tissue and or human skin.  When you get to the point of controlling the whip onto specific targets, then you can add the 'pop' to it.  I'm not into making a lot of noise as all it does is fray and wears the popper/cracker out more.  However, it is fun to create the 'crrrrrrrrrrrack.'  This is energy sending through the arm, through the hand and the whip.  By making a real fast check-mark, you can hear the pop.  Much like the child's game of 'crack the whip.'

I personally do not like my single tails to have a sweet spot.  My personal preference is to be able to pick a whip up immediately, and have it work no matter what side of the whip I choose.  I roll my whips that are new, having the leathers on all 4 sides of the braiding work, stretch and break in--as well as carry the load/stress of energy movement.  In addition, I've seen so many people send whips back to the maker, as their complaint that the whip does not go straight.  I do save many from the trouble as, it really is a braiding out of alignment.  The braids are like 'military chevrons' a V or /\ ; Putting the V back into a straight line again corrects the send.  When coiling the whip, often this mis-alignment occurs.  So, that is the first thing I check before I use a signal whip or snake-whip.

I don't recommend hitting the popper/cracker on anything hard.  The best way to target practice is hanging post-a-notes off a pillow and disturb them but not take them off unless you desire them to fly off.
If you have a mop, a flogger, wig or anything else soft--even some rope; then you can have it as a target. 

My students had to single tail a match in my fingers as far as passing 'aim' test.  Also, a few of my students had to put a single tail in between two boards 3 inches apart and hit a swinging object.  This is before they used whips on a person.  Several of my former students are now instructors themselves.   But, the basics were the best foundation they had.

Respectfully submitted for consideration,
Lady Hugs



Mavis -> RE: Whip Classes (8/5/2006 1:12:03 AM)

There is a whip class in Nashville this summer.  you'd have to come to Nashville once a month, so adding travel costs to the $30.00 per class fee might be more than you're up for.  There is also an 80.00 fee to buy the whip.  i think gas from NC might run about the same as renting a lear jet. <grins>  

Anyway, look for something where you have guided hands-on practice for 6+ hours.  The Nashville class i mentioned is in 4 sessions, two weeks apart for the first two classes, then once amonth once your practice time is well underway.   Shorter classes, like the 2-3 hour sessions offered at dungeon clubs usually leave people going home to practice incorrectly, and nobody to correct your muscle memory as you learn. 
http://GrownUpsMeet.org

Videos are available online, but private tutoring or group classes is the way to go if you can, because a trained eye can observe your throw and correct it for your style.  you'll also need to learn how to maintain your whip, and bio-hazard inorfmation if you plan to use it on live bodies rather than just targeting.  i'm not sure where there might be classes closer to your area.

As for a sub learning, i'm a slave, and i'm learning. i know a lovely female slave with topping skills, it's not that unusual.  i just like the practice on targeting just like some people like shooting guns at firing range, but don't hunt.  i didn't like whips at all until i got working with Master, and His fire and passion for them got me interested.  i might have done the same thing if He got a full-body-hard-on over bowling..  when something stokes someone up,  it becomes interesting.



vield -> RE: Whip Classes (8/5/2006 1:30:10 AM)

Yes Mavis makes some great points.

I suggest that anyone interested in the use of potentially dangerous whips like singletails should think about attending a weekend scene event in your region (they are in most parts of the US and some other countries now). Nearly always one of the classes offered will be whip skills.

Next I suggest purchasing a good quality whip of a size you personally can practice with. Your size is part of this picture, but the size of your living room or bedroom also matters. You can not practice with a 12 foot whip in a 10 x 10 room.

I also suggest you spend three to 6 months practicing on pillows and targets before ever trying this on any humans. You need accuracy and consistancy.

You also will soon find out why dominants with whips wear leather vests. You will hit yourself many times. Eye protection is very important.

One can also publically practice a LOT of the sorts of throws you may do with a whip simply by using a fishing fly rod. A lot of the throws are similar. But you still will need to practice a lot with your singletail.
vield



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