Elegant
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Have you ever noticed that most of the exotic boot leathers are from creatures that are feared? Snakes, sharks, alligators, lizards and eels are among these creatures that are frequently portrayed as dangerous and destructive and often mysterious….often showing up in mythology and folklore. Even the Christian version of the beginning of mankind features an evil serpent that is the force behind man’s fall from grace.
Ironically, the care of boots made from the skins of these exotic and often-evil animals can be dangerous and destructive. But there is also a lot of myth surrounding proper care of exotic leathers.
Don’t let the care of exotic leathers be your ‘fall from grace in you bootblacking skills.
SNAKESKIN
Aftercare is a very important factor in upkeep of snakeskin boots. Using a soft dry cotton cloth, wipe with the direction of the scales to remove topical dirt and dust. Use a very soft brush (ie: sable paintbrush) to gently remove dirt and dust underneath scales. Do not lift scales.
General cleaning of snakeskin footwear is best done with a cotton cloth slightly dampened with plain water. Since snake scales are water resistant soap products and excessive water will run off the scales and down to the membrane causing drying and curling of the scales.
Use conditioners specifically made for snakeskin/reptiles. These conditioners are lighter in composition than most general leather conditioners. This does not refer to the viscosity but to the product ingredients. (Imagine the difference between vegetable oil and Crisco. Both are the same ingredients but Crisco is hydrogenated giving it a different viscosity. Therefore, just because a leather conditioner is more liquid or in spray formula does not mean it contains lighter conditioner ingredients. Using products for smooth leather may leave a residue that will build up around the membranes that hold the scales and cause scales to crack or fall off.
Should you put wax on snakeskin for shine enhancement? If this is needed it’s best to use a cream product as opposed to a hard wax. There is no need to use multiple coats of the cream polish. DO NOT use colored cream polish on natural colored snakeskin; it will react with the chemicals used in tanning and tinge the skin green. Use neutral cream polish instead.
White snakeskin (such as many Python skin boots) is actually bleached. Boots made from bleached snakeskin will eventually return to their natural golden color... that's just the way it is. Re-bleaching will shorten the life of the boot.
Most snakeskin boots are made with a layer of snakeskin laminated over cow skin. The cow leather will become dry over time. To rejuvenate the cow leather use a quality leather conditioner on the inside of the boot and let sit for a few days.
LIZARD
Because of its distinct markings most of the finest quality lizard boots and deck shoes are made with Teju lizard from Argentina, specifically the belly of the lizard. Boots with belly scales will have a larger and more distinct skin. An "Egg white" protein and glaze at the factory give these boots their shine and rich color.
As with snakeskin, aftercare is a very important factor in upkeep of lizard boots. Using a soft dry cotton cloth, wipe with the direction of the scales to remove topical dirt and dust. Use a very soft brush (ie: sable paintbrush) to gently remove dirt and dust underneath scales if they are not hardened down in the tanning process. Do not lift scales.
General cleaning of lizard footwear is best done with a cotton cloth slightly dampened with plain water. Since lizard scales are water resistant, soap products and excessive water will run off the scales and down to the membrane causing drying and curling of the scales. This is especially dangerous if the boot is made of many sections of lizard as the adhesives can be damaged.
Use conditioners specifically made for reptiles. These conditioners are lighter in composition than most general leather conditioners. This does not refer to the viscosity but to the product ingredients. (Imagine the difference between vegetable oil and Crisco. Both are the same ingredients but Crisco is hydrogenated giving it a different viscosity. Therefore, just because a leather conditioner is more liquid or in spray formula does not mean it contains lighter conditioner ingredients. Using products for smooth leather may leave a residue that will build up around the membranes that hold the scales and cause scales to crack or fall off.
Finishing lizard skin boots with a wax or cream polish is not recommended. These products will often cover up the slight iridescent quality that makes lizard skin unique.
Most lizard skin boots are made with a layer of snakeskin laminated over cow skin. The cow leather will become dry over time. To rejuvenate the cow leather use a quality leather conditioner on the inside of the boot and let sit for a few days.
Teju Lizard dries out more easily than cowhide and cannot absorb conditioner as readily due to its irregular surface. Condition more often and in thinner coats to prevent cracking.
ALLIGATOR AND CAIMEN
Boots with distinct patterns are created from the backside of farm-raised alligator. Softer boots are from the belly skin. Caiman, a cousin of the alligator) are also farm raised for skin use and treated the same as for alligator leather.
Aftercare is similar to that of cow leather boots. Using a soft barely damp cotton cloth, wipe topical dirt and dust. Pay special attention to alcohol spills on the boot as this will dry out the leather quickly and could eat into the skin fibers.
General cleaning of alligator boots can be done with saddle soap but be sure to remove the soap residue before it dries.
Use conditioners specifically made for reptiles. These conditioners are lighter in composition than most general leather conditioners. This does not refer to the viscosity but to the product ingredients. (Imagine the difference between vegetable oil and Crisco. Both are the same ingredients but Crisco is hydrogenated giving it a different viscosity. Therefore, just because a leather conditioner is more liquid or in spray formula does not mean it contains lighter conditioner ingredients.
Alligator hide is similar to cow leather in that it can be shined, although not to the extent of a glossy mirror spit shine. Use a neutral wax for boots that have any color variations otherwise match wax color with the boot color. There is no need to use multiple coats of wax.
SHARK
Shark leather boots can be of two types: Smooth or with denticles. A shark has microscopic scales called denticles made of hard dentin. Basically these are tiny teeth that point all in one direction. Sharkskin with the denticles removed leaves smooth leather. An easy way to identify the difference is to pull a stocking back and forth across the boot. Sharkskin with denticles will cause a slight tug on the stocking.
Shark is very tough, durable and lighter in weight than cow leather. It can be tanned in a variety of rich colors. While sharkskin is water resistant it is not waterproof and excess moisture will dry out the leather very quickly.
Aftercare is similar to that of cow leather boots. Using a soft barely damp cotton cloth, wipe topical dirt and dust. Pay special attention to alcohol spills on the boot as this will dry out the leather quickly and could destroy the finish.
General cleaning of sharkskin boots can be done with saddle soap but be sure to remove the soap residue before it dries.
Although a reptile conditioner can be used a quality cow leather conditioner works just as well. The key is to condition often, as sharkskin needs the extra oils and conditioners to maintain softness and flexibility. Apply extra conditioner around the edges where the sole is sewn to the foot so that the stitched area does not split.
Sharkskin boots usually come with a factory applied glaze that imparts a low gloss shine. Additional shine and color enhancement can be created with a hard wax polish. Since tanning methods for sharkskin are similar to that of cow leather the procedure is also similar.
EEL
Eel is very thin but very durable material. Eel is proven to be 1.5 times stronger than cowhide of the same thickness. Even so, most eel skin boots are made with a layer of eel laminated over cow skin. The cow leather will become dry over time. To rejuvenate the cow leather use a quality leather conditioner on the inside of the boot and let sit for a few days.
Aftercare is similar to that of cow leather boots. Using a soft barely damp cotton cloth, wipe topical dirt and dust. Pay special attention to alcohol spills on the boot as this will dry out the leather quickly and could destroy the finish.
Eel skin boots are usually made with sections of eel skin sewn together. General cleaning of eel skin footwear is best done with a cotton cloth slightly dampened with plain water so that cleaning products do not seep through the joins of the skins.
Use a reptile conditioner for eel skin. These conditioners are lighter in composition than most general leather conditioners. This does not refer to the viscosity but to the product ingredients. (Imagine the difference between vegetable oil and Crisco. Both are the same ingredients but Crisco is hydrogenated giving it a different viscosity. Therefore, just because a leather conditioner is more liquid or in spray formula does not mean it contains lighter conditioner ingredients. Using products for smooth leather may leave a heavy residue on this thin leather and will settle under the stitched seams of the skin, causing thread deterioration.
Eel skin can be shined although multiple coats of hard wax will leave the thin skin less flexible. A cream polish is a better choice. Use a neutral tint as eel skin has subtle but lovely color variations.
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Don’t fear exotic leather care. You don’t have to be a devout Pentecostal to handle snakeskin or a bayou raised Cajun to care for alligator boots.
Jump right in those sharkskin boot infested waters and keep caring for leather of all types.
Copyright September 2006 - Elegant
_____________________________
Elegant
~Slave To Master Archer
http://www.FantasiesInLeather.com
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