Ball python

Ball python (Full Version)

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griffn -> Ball python (1/26/2007 12:25:46 PM)
So I just got a 7 year old ball python. Ive had him for 3 months and he wont eat. In fact the last rat I put in his cage started to eat him! So I go to my local pet store to ask for help and some clueless kid tells me dont worry this is normal. Then I try online and get told its not normal. So that brings me to my question is there anyone on here that realy knows about Ball pythons and if I need to worry or just wait till he gets hungry. He seems to be in good health has shed 3x and is warm enough 75-80 deg in tank. Thanks

TheLadyM -> RE: Ball python (1/26/2007 12:50:55 PM)
Your bp may not be eating because of your husbandry. You really cannot listen to pet shops as they are often not sufficiently knowledgeable on these animals. Ball pythons need several things to thrive: a warm and cool side - warm side temp should be 90 - 92, cool side - 80 - 82. In the 70's and you are risking a respiratory infection. Never use a heat rock - use undertank heaters and a heatlamp if necessary. Just be aware of the humidity requirements when using a heatlamp. They need a tight identical hide on each side of the enclosure - it should touch them on all sides - ball pythons will sacrifice thermal regulation for security. Humidity should be 50-60%, increased to 70% when your snake is coming into shed. You need to be able to accurately measure temps and humidity - an accurite thermomoeter/hygrometer available from walmart is an excellent and affordable choice - the ones from the pet shop are useless. Substrate - there are a variety of options but many experienced herpers use newspaper. It's cheap and easy to change out. Cypress mulch is reasonably good - NEVER pine or cedar. And of course a source of clean drinking water. As to feeding: you should be feeding one prey item a week, no larger than the widest part of your snakes body. I would recommend joining a community like ball-pythons.net, where you'll find many knowledgeable and caring people and get spot on advice. Here's a good caresheet to start with : http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&id=59 You can contact me through my profile if you need further assistance.

TheLadyM -> RE: Ball python (1/26/2007 1:05:00 PM)
Oh, and one other thing. You mentioned the rat was biting your snake. Never leave your snake unsupervised with the prey item. Only leave the prey item in for about 10 minutes and remove it if the snake hasn't taken it. Offer it again the following week.

LaTigresse -> RE: Ball python (1/26/2007 1:11:46 PM)
Ohhh, we have a resident herpetologist (or maybe even more) Najakcharmer (seriously this woman really knows her stuff, its her business) please contact her with questions. I am sure she can tell you everything you could possibly need to know.

griffn -> RE: Ball python (1/26/2007 3:31:36 PM)
quote: ORIGINAL: TheLadyM Your bp may not be eating because of your husbandry. You really cannot listen to pet shops as they are often not sufficiently knowledgeable on these animals. Ball pythons need several things to thrive: a warm and cool side - warm side temp should be 90 - 92, cool side - 80 - 82. In the 70's and you are risking a respiratory infection. Never use a heat rock - use undertank heaters and a heatlamp if necessary. Just be aware of the humidity requirements when using a heatlamp. They need a tight identical hide on each side of the enclosure - it should touch them on all sides - ball pythons will sacrifice thermal regulation for security. Humidity should be 50-60%, increased to 70% when your snake is coming into shed. You need to be able to accurately measure temps and humidity - an accurite thermomoeter/hygrometer available from walmart is an excellent and affordable choice - the ones from the pet shop are useless. Substrate - there are a variety of options but many experienced herpers use newspaper. It's cheap and easy to change out. Cypress mulch is reasonably good - NEVER pine or cedar. And of course a source of clean drinking water. As to feeding: you should be feeding one prey item a week, no larger than the widest part of your snakes body. I would recommend joining a community like ball-pythons.net, where you'll find many knowledgeable and caring people and get spot on advice. Here's a good caresheet to start with : http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&id=59 You can contact me through my profile if you need further assistance. very cool site thanks. Fakir thanks you to.

CH3CH2OH -> RE: Ball python (1/26/2007 10:29:54 PM)
Ball pythons can occasionally be shy feeders, too. If he won't eat, try setting up the cage as someone recommended (with the warm and cool end, and adequate humidity). DO NOT leave a snake eating live prey unattended, and if you're feeding in the cage (my boas eat in the bathtub) DO NOT use a wood chip substrate. They can swallow it and it causes a crap-ton of problems. I'm also going to suggest that you find a reputable reptile vet in your area if the eating problems don't get any better. Another hint for placing the thermometer/humidity meter in the cage is to place it at the bottom- your snake is going to spend most of its time there, so you'll get a more accurate reading by having it lower.

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