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Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 2:41:56 PM   
angelique510


Posts: 33
Joined: 8/27/2005
Status: offline 		Greetings.

We are interested in purchasing a manufactured (HUD) home. It would suit us very well - except for the acoustics of the construction. You can hear someone talking in a normal voice at the far side of the house, about 50 feet away. Not only is this not conducive to normal everyday living - we don't want to hear the kids watching Sponge Bob in their bedrooms, or worry about waking other family member who are on a different sleep schedule - we have other concerns about sounds carrying, that I'm sure you folks can well understand ;)

The home had easily removable wall paneling throughout. So that part is easy, but what do I put in the walls to dampen sound? Do any of you have suggestions on how to soundproof the place? What have you tried? What has worked and has not worked? What kind of expense might I be looking at to fix this?

I appreciate any advice you may have.

Thank you.
Be well.
~A
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RE: Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 3:10:10 PM   
azropedntied


Posts: 1829
Joined: 7/25/2005
From: Phx AZ
Status: offline 		head to a home improvement store ,go to building materials and get sound board , its easy enough to install  just make  sure  you dont screw it into  wires  existing in the wall , find the studs . " nooo not those studs , the wall studs " . If you want it completely sound proof  do like recording studios do and add  foam .Not as  good looking  thick moving blankets also  work  when hung on the  walls and windows .if your doing a deticated room right  , remove the wooden paneling , stuff it with rolled insulation , apply drywall , then soundboard , test , then add foam if needed . A dual  or thick pane window too .Your only weak point will be your interior door as they ar  most often hollow . getting a solid core door with a draft gaurd  should  just about do it . 

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RE: Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 3:17:06 PM   
CalifChick


Posts: 10717
Joined: 10/28/2007
From: California
Status: offline 		Ask them if something called "staggered stud walls" is an option.  Basically, the walls are about twice as thick, and the studs alternate from one wall to the other, with soundproofing insulation in between.  If not, you can put up a false wall butted up to the existing wall, with soundproofing in between.  You'll need a bit of electrical experience to move the outlets to the new wall.  Change out the hollow-core doors to solid core doors, and put in door sweeps at the bottom, like this: http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/soundproofing_doors.htm 

You want as much soft surface as possible, to absorb sound.  Carpeting absorbs sound better than hard flooring. 

You can also quilt your walls (the original "padded room").  Here is one example of how to do it:  http://www.bhg.com/homekeeping/fabric-walls/?page=4 

Cali


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RE: Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 3:43:32 PM   
pompeii


Posts: 934
Joined: 1/4/2007
From: Silicon Valley, San Jose, California
Status: offline 		Ball gags. Bit gags. Cloth gags. Ring gags. They're all excellent sound-proofing for portable applications.

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RE: Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 3:46:29 PM   
DesFIP


Posts: 25191
Joined: 11/25/2007
From: Apple County NY
Status: offline 		Suggestions in this article. http://www.articlecity.com/articles/home_improvement/article_1282.shtml
I have to figure if it worked to allow a garage band, then intimate activities would be easy in comparison.

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RE: Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 5:47:06 PM   
azropedntied


Posts: 1829
Joined: 7/25/2005
From: Phx AZ
Status: offline 		OK but what about whip cracks ?flogger noise? hand spanks and paddle whacks ?gags are fine for diminished  oral expressions but not what caused them , and trailers and apartments have thin walls .So do hotels but its not like  your living there  for long , besides you may have interesting  elevator gazes .

quote:

ORIGINAL: pompeii

Ball gags. Bit gags. Cloth gags. Ring gags. They're all excellent sound-proofing for portable applications.

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RE: Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 6:15:19 PM   
msprudence


Posts: 112
Joined: 7/3/2008
Status: offline 		A Cheap-ish solution= Foam bed pads and Velvet Curtains.

I've known several dommes who had apartments in SF and NY who worried about their neighbors and screams- so they did put up foam using a staple gun- everywhere.  Then they covered it in Velvet curtains.  You have to do overlays on the doors and the hit the floor too, or it doesn't work. 



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RE: Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 7:58:22 PM   
Daddyssweetpea


Posts: 89
Joined: 8/23/2008
Status: offline 		would that liquid foam insulation stuff work?

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RE: Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 8:56:43 PM   
azropedntied


Posts: 1829
Joined: 7/25/2005
From: Phx AZ
Status: offline 		liquid expansion foam would be very messy , prob not the way to go .There are company's that have spray foams  yet still messy and  $$$ . 

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RE: Soundproofing - 8/31/2008 9:35:38 PM   
MzMia


Posts: 5333
Joined: 7/30/2004
Status: offline 		I love this thread, I am lucky my old house has a wooded area on one side and in the back.
I am writing down some tips.

Question:  If you scream in a soundproof room, and no one hears you, is it really a scream?


< Message edited by MzMia -- 8/31/2008 9:46:59 PM >

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RE: Soundproofing - 9/1/2008 1:46:14 AM   
Prinsexx


Posts: 4584
Joined: 8/27/2007
Status: offline 		Learning to be a good silent girl is one of the best answers. Silence is golden as the song says.
Being in the type of household you talk about makes so-called edge play (needles and knives, asphyxiation) easy but whips, crops canes and smacking difficult.
I like 24/7 in a house like that.......


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RE: Soundproofing - 9/1/2008 2:40:01 AM   
d1ll1gaf


Posts: 33
Joined: 11/11/2007
Status: offline 		Without actually seeing your home it is impossible to give a precise method of sound proofing a bedroom. However, all sound proofing techniques operate on the same principle. Sound transmits much better through air than through solid or liquid objects (think about screaming under water). This means that sound enters/escapes your bedroom through the following sources:

1) Right through the walls. Modern construction (especially modular construction) utilizes stud walls with hollow internal cavities. These cavities can actually act as a sound amplifier just like a drum. Filling them with any material will cut down on sound transfer, although the thicker & heavier the material the better. Just make sure you don't damage or over insulate any electrical wires or plumbing in the walls

2) If your home has either a drop ceiling or a crawl space under all of the rooms, sound will travel through them. Putting insulation in these areas will radically reduce sound transfer

3) If your home has duct work (for heat or air), the ducts themselves will transfer sound between rooms. These are ticker to soundproof because you don't want to impede air transfer while reducing sound. The best product I have ever seen for these is a commercial expansion joint. It is basically a piece of fabric duct work that attaches inline with the rest of your ducting. While sound can bounce around within metal duct work, the fabric doesn't vibrate the same and thus absorbs most of the sound.

4) The room door. Most inside doors are hollow-core, and provide minimal sound insulation. Consider either installing a solid wood door, or filling you hollow-core door with spray foam. Also consider putting weather sealing gaskets around the door (to keep out sound not weather of course).

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RE: Soundproofing - 9/1/2008 4:52:21 AM   
DarkSteven


Posts: 28072
Joined: 5/2/2008
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: MzMia

Question:  If you scream in a soundproof room, and no one hears you, is it really a scream?



If it isn't, it doesn't count.  Whack him/her again.


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RE: Soundproofing - 9/1/2008 5:07:45 AM   
CruelDesires


Posts: 824
Joined: 11/20/2004
Status: offline 		Thick carpets and throw rugs also help to absorb sound.

C-D

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RE: Soundproofing - 9/1/2008 6:18:57 AM   
PsyVamp


Posts: 1026
Joined: 10/30/2006
Status: offline
quote:

3) If your home has duct work (for heat or air), the ducts themselves will transfer sound between rooms. These are ticker to soundproof because you don't want to impede air transfer while reducing sound. The best product I have ever seen for these is a commercial expansion joint. It is basically a piece of fabric duct work that attaches inline with the rest of your ducting. While sound can bounce around within metal duct work, the fabric doesn't vibrate the same and thus absorbs most of the sound.


As d1ll1gaf said, ducts are probably going to be the one thing you overlook with all the other great advice.... Please take this one seriously.  As a child I used to eavesdrop on some intersting household conversation through the duct system... (no, it isn't something I indulge in as an adult)


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