dRGreen420
Posts: 81
Joined: 6/12/2012 Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: mnottertail We've agreed from the outset that it works. I have informed each and everyone on this thread (none of the tesla geeks did, and were most likely unaware of it) that it is used in every television, cell phone and computer. I have also said that nothing moves faster than the speed of light as defined. Nobody has said it doesnt work. now, these nodes are interesting but not consequential in any way I see, they appear arbitrary, nobody is cutting these wire lengths using a vernier caliper and resonance balancing and therefore I dont see standing waves involved by exacting the lengths to some waves frequency integers and creating them betwixt and between these points. Have you clipped a millimeter off (or added one to) the wire that trails the bulb allowing it to light? does it still light the bulb? People are talking about different things at the same time. I haven't done the "hairpin" circuit myself, only read Tesla describing the experiment. He states that the experimenter might take care to be quite alone when doing the experiment in case of being the subject of the joke of his assistants who propose it. In this case the nodes are absolutely relevant because this is where the bulbs light. There are points of high potential and low potential along the length of the loop, or what could be said to be standing waves, all being dependant on the frequency. As for coil design, the length of the wire determines the resonant frequency of the coil. As with a radio transmitter if you want a particular frequency then you need to use particular values of components. You can try to force resonance through various tuning, but then it's not optimised, you need amplifiers and so on. Here we don't necessarily want or need it to be tunable over a wide frequency band, we want maximum magnification factor at the intended frequency, so the coil must resonate at that frequency naturally. One wire light bulbs, the wire leading out of the bulb is absolutely key to making the bulb light. Though not so much the wire itself, just a some conductive mass that has capacitance. If you make the wire shorter the bulb will get dimmer, make it longer and it will get brighter. Replace the wire with your hand and it can get to full brightness because you have a lot more capacitance than the wire. You can even hold the coil output in one hand, the bulb in the other and have someone else hold on to the other side of the bulb and light it as in the video I previously posted. As long as there's enough of a potential difference over the filament then it will light. It seems to prefer certain resistances or bulb wattages though. It's not enough to say that a 12v 5w bulb will be easier to light than a 240v 15w bulb. The 12v bulb may not light at all, but the 240v bulb will get to full brightness. All depends on the frequencies and resistance of the filament etc. If the resistance is too low then it will just flow straight through it and produce no light. [edit] It's also possible to hold the coil output in one hand and light fluorescent tubes in the other hand, becoming the transmission line, but this only works at lower frequencies approx 1000 kc and below. Different effects are seen by using different frequencies.
< Message edited by dRGreen420 -- 8/21/2012 5:49:07 PM >
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