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For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:03:48 PM   
LafayetteLady


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Ok, I've been staying with a friend and he has a cat.  Sparky is not a nice cat.  He's mean, smacking you as you walk by with his claws out, and he is a MARKER.  Sparky was here before me, so while I have been able to modify his behavior a little, it isn't enough.

Now my housemate and I are going to be moving into a new house. A nice house.  A house where Sparky has never gotten the chance to try to mark his territory.  I want to keep it that way.

So there will be two cats in the new house, mine, Socks, and his, Sparky.  Socks ALWAYS uses the litter box without fail, lately Sparky has decided to shit in the shower and piss on the wall.  This is totally unacceptable to me and he gets in trouble every time he does it.

My plan, good bad or indifferent, is that when we move into the new house, he is going to be in a large crate that holds a litter box, bed and his food.  My hop is that he will "discover" the littler box and start using it.  He will be kept in that crate the majority of the time, let out to go outside.  The house is in a very rural area, so he will be safe (he goes out now).

We had hoped that Sparky would learn good habits from Socks, but are settling for being grateful she hasn't learned bad habits from him.

So all you cat fanciers out there (and the expert, DuskyPearls I need your help!).  What else can we do to break this habit?  There has to be something.

Sparky needs to be neutered and Socks needs to be spayed, hopefully this will be done before Christmas, must be done before moving in the new house.  Will neutering make him stop?

I don't want to toss my best friend's cat out the door, but if he raises his tail and pisses on my wall, out the door is the better of the two options I have.

I'm open to all ideas on this.  I always had female cats and none of them did this.  They both know they aren't allowed on the kitchen counter (although they try and sneak up, and get shooed down), that is a workable issue.

He is also not the friendliest cat I ever met.  I don't just mean he acts like a cat who wants attention when he wants it, he will try to bite you if you go to pet him. 

So c'mon folks, I've tried every training technique I know with this guy.  My sock was feral when I got her and I was able to turn her into a "needs to cuddle all the time" baby.  I can't get this Sparky to do anything.

Help!
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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:12:01 PM   
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When Richard Hehasissues Mayhem "RugbyBall" the Doomcat starting marking things in yellow ink, he went to vet and lost his boy-parts.
Now he's happy to say "this is mine" by rubbing his face on things.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:14:22 PM   
LafayetteLady


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Did that make him stop COMPLETELY? As in he never did it again?  That would be wonderful!  Will a vet guarantee it stops?

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:19:23 PM   
Hillwilliam


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Usually, neutering will stop marking behavior.

It could be worse, I was at a zoo a few years ago and didn't think anything when a tiger backed up to the cage bars in front of me. Thank God I was able to duck fast.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:24:19 PM   
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Yes, but he'd barely entered feline puberty. A vet cannot make such a guarantee, sadly.
However, the loss of the balls will decrease his need to show what a big bad kitty he is to one and all.
Without the hormonal need to attract a female cat, and keep any threats to his ability to mate away from his territory, a fixed male will mellow out considerably.
He will probly still be a butt-head, just with the volume turned down.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:25:44 PM   
xxblushesxx


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You have a big problem, and it's going to (more than likely) take a lot of work and a combination of treatments to resolve.
Spaying and neutering should be done ASAP. (or you're gonna have kittens...literally)

Your first idea is actually a good place to start. It's called re-training. It generally takes at least two weeks of the huge crate (and it should be big) therapy to affect a change in behaviour.

If any other cat has ever lived and sprayed at the house you're moving to, your trouble may be magnified, as sparky will smell it (even if you don't) and decide to spray there as well.

There is a special (expensive but good) cat litter that has been invented by a vet who specializes in felines, that works well with litter box resistant cats. http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B0009X49IC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1323756735&sr=8-3 You can mix it with your regular litter to help it last longer. It does seem to help.

But the only thing that helped my cat (Fitzroy the Terrible) was drug therapy. You could try just a calming spray (or a plug in) using feliway. That may do the trick. But if you have a big house, it will be expensive. http://www.amazon.com/Feliway-Feline-Behavior-Modification-Spray/dp/B0006N9EEE/ref=sr_1_8?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1323756946&sr=1-8

Or...you can go to your vet, over and over, almost in tears because you are going to have to get rid of the kitty you love because he won't stop spraying, and HM won't put up with all of his antiques being ruined, and hopefully, you'll be prescribed a drug that will work well for your kitty. It took a couple of months before we were satisfied that it was really working, but it did, and Fitzroy is now Fitzroy the Wonderful. Here is the info on the drug Fitzy takes:

Fluoxetine for Urine Spraying in Cats
Administration of fluoxetine hydrochloride for treatment of urine spraying in cats can be expected to considerably reduce the rate of urine marking. Pryor et al. recommend that most cats should be treated more than eight weeks before treatment is withdrawn. Cats that vertically marked a mean of > or = 3 times per week were treated for 8 weeks with fluoxetine (1mg/kg PO daily- dosage individualized for each cat by a compounding pharmacy) or fish-flavored liquid placebo. When treatment was discontinued after 8 weeks, the spraying rate of cats that had received treatment varied. The main adverse reaction to the drug was a reduction in food intake, which was observed in 4 of 9 treated cats.
J Am Vet Med Assoc 2001 Dec 1;219(11):1557-61
Effects of a selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor on urine spraying behavior in cats.
Click here to access the PubMed abstract of this article.

Also, using a chemical that will break down the urine and eliminate it such as Nature's Miracle (really the best) and using a black light to find the spots is very important. If there are still areas he's sprayed that you haven't eliminated, it will be difficult to get him to quit. It's literally calling to him. http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Quart-Urine-Destroyer/dp/B003I5QRJ2/ref=dp_cp_ob_petsupplies_title_1

Oh, and there should be three litter boxes in your home, cleaned every day. (the proper formula is one for each cat, plus one more.)

I know it sounds like a ton of work. That's because it is.  But if you are diligent you can fix this. I know.

< Message edited by xxblushesxx -- 12/12/2011 10:26:30 PM >


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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:27:39 PM   
xxblushesxx


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quote:

ORIGINAL: LafayetteLady

Did that make him stop COMPLETELY? As in he never did it again?  That would be wonderful!  Will a vet guarantee it stops?



Nope. It's doubtful. Once they start, it's difficult to get them to quit. I had Fitz neutered when he was tiny, and he still began spraying. : (

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:28:55 PM   
FelineFae


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Kitties are always worth the work.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:37:59 PM   
LafayetteLady


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Well, I'm hoping to schedule the neutering in the next week or so.  Believe me, we don't want kittens and we kept them separate at all times while mine was in heat.  We are 95% sure we were successful.   If not, that will be taken care of (which I feel bad about), and both will be fixed.  When we move, Sparky will be crated downstairs in my housemate's "workroom" so he isn't alone and neglected.  I'm hoping that will lead him to the box.  I've never needed to get adult cats to share boxes, but already realize we need two.  You are saying three, so we will work on the three.  There is a good chance that Sparky is never coming up stairs at all because I can't have him spraying the new house.  It's really nice and I'm not letting a cat make is smell like piss.

Thanks everyone, hopefully with all this advice something will work.  Or he lives outside and isn't allowed in the house at all (unless crated-I won't leave him out in the cold).  He's my housemate's cat, I really can't just can't say get rid of him...

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 10:41:41 PM   
xxblushesxx


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We've almost always had a basement kitteh. One who, for one reason or another, is not allowed upstairs.

I'd highly suggest trying to implement the above suggestions first though, because one or a combination might just work for you, and I wouldn't want you feeling guilty every time you saw him. (trust me, it happens) That drug was a miracle worker for us. We're slowly cutting back on it, but he hasn't had an incident in at least a couple (if not a few) months. I think he's been on it about five months.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/12/2011 11:19:27 PM   
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Share your weed. That's why he's pissed (so to speak); you're Bogarting.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/13/2011 12:53:47 AM   
MistressDarkArt


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For Sparky's swiping and mean behavior...neutering should help this immensely. Also, time and getting older. Boy kittehs mellow a lot with age and generally become much more affectionate when they mature. Sounds like there are a lot of changes going on for Sparky. Between neutering and letting things settle down in the new house, you should see significant improvement. Good luck!

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/13/2011 7:03:41 AM   
Duskypearls


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Boy, is this ever a hot-button topic for cats and their owners! More cats are abandoned or put in shelters for this reason alone. This can be tricky to resolve, and may take time, effort, patience and creativity. Some cats are harder than others to shift, in this regard, especially those who have strong behavioral components to the problem (which it sounds as tho' Sparkly may have), or those who have been doing it for a long time. If it were my cat, I'd consider the following:

Have I ruled out FLUTD (Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease), congenital, neurogenic, and musculoskeletal, DJD (degenerative joint disease)? Chiropractic, acupuncture and Naturopathic remedies may be helpful. Have you a holistic vet in your area?

Does he spray near windows, cat doors, or house doors in response to seeing/smelling other cats, which inspire it to mark territory? If so, can you block his visual access? If the spraying is a response to cats outside, you could cover the windows or put something slightly aversive on the windowsill like a lemon-scented solid deodorizer. You could also discourage the neighboring cats from coming into the yard.

Spraying can result from fear, stress, anxiety, anger, aggression, neglect, or change. Cats are VERY sensitive to change! Does Sparky pick on Socks, as well? So he bites when you pet him, and swipes at you as you walk by. It may be predatory aggression. Does he react with more aggression when corrected? Perhaps Flower Essences may be supportive, i.e., Rescue Remedy (Bach), Snapdragon (Flower Essence Society - FES) for biting/aggression, FES Tiger Lily for hostility/aggression.

Does Sparky get enough attention, handling and special treatment? I know it's hard if he's aggressive, but sometimes extra love, play and treats can be helpful. Aggressive animals don't realize their aggression creates avoidance behaviors in humans, which means they get less positive attention, which often translates into more stress for them, which may equal more aggression. Re-directed aggression occurs when a cat sees another cat, but cannot reach it and attacks the owner or another cat in the household instead. To treat redirected aggression, remove the cat to a quiet dark room and isolate him until he is calm. Don't try to handle the cat—push it with a cardboard shield to maneuver it into a quiet room. Try to prevent visual contact with strange cats—the usual cause of redirected aggression.

Is he spraying in response to Socks, who is unspayed? How old are both cats? Are they indoor or outdoor pets, or both? What's Sparky's full history, including all medical issues?

I would only correct when actually caught in the act of spraying. Doing so after the fact is counterproductive, and actually may increase the behavior. Timing is everything. You can try a loud noise, water pistol, plant sprayer, bean bag, etc.

"Re-training" in a crate w/a litter box, food/water is a good first step, and as Blushes said, it may take time. Too much time in a crate may create more problems, as he won't get the attention, stimulation and exercise he needs. It can be a fine line to walk. You might consult with a good vet to get their opinion as to whether crate re-training would be better begun before the move or after. FES Chestnut Bud helps instill effective learning patterns during training by stimulating the animals emotional memory and ability to retain training, and not repeat mistakes.

Have at least 1 litter box per cat, and keep it spotless. Find the litter that works best. Some cats hate scented ones, some won't use mechanical boxes.

Find and clean all previously “marked” areas (fluourescein dye and black light may be necessary). Use enzymatic cleaners to remove it well. NEVER ammonia! Try turning such sites into positive play areas with toys, catnip, litter box, food/water, resting perches, vertical cat trees, etc. Or make the area less attractive to the cat using items like aluminum foil, sticky paper, sandpaper, or a carpet runner with the nubby side up.

Cats use facial pheromones to mark/own people, places, and objects, and usually will not spray where they have facially marked an area. Try rubbing a washcloth along his whiskers/cheeks repeatedly, then rub it over areas he's previously sprayed on, that have already been cleaned.

“Feliway,” a synthetic feline facial pheromone analogue, has a calming effect on marking cats. Try using it on/near the marked areas one to three times a day.

Drug therapy may be helpful, i.e., Valium, Buspar, Prozac, Amitriptyline, Clomipramine, but can be toxic, so get liver/kidney baselines before beginning, and monitor their levels during drug therapy. Hormone therapy; Ovaban or Depo Provera may helpful, as they hormonally “feminize” male cats, which may reduce/stop their masculine desire/need to spray/mark.

Surgical interventions are rarely performed to treat urine marking, but, bilateral ischiocavernosus myectomy and olfactory tractotomy have had some success in reducing or controlling urine marking.

He'll probably want to "mark" his new home as territory, so use his own facial pheromones or Feliway to mark it for him before he gets there. FES Walnut before/during/after move may help him break ties to his old home, and make ties to his new home.

That's all that comes to mind right now, my dear. If I think of anything else, I'll post later. Good luck with him!

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/13/2011 8:50:00 AM   
angelikaJ


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LL,
DustyPearls' post was comprehensive.


You and your kitty moved into this other (unaltered) male cat's turf.

Of course he is going to mark.

Male kitties who aren't altered will mark.
Male kitties who have acquired the habit of marking may mark after being fixed (although it should be better) because now it is a habit. It will however just be normal cat pee (as unpleasant as that is on it's own) and not the hormonally juiced up, really fragrant
tom-cat stuff.

The Feliway is a great suggestion and also believe it or not my vet suggested adding a dropper-ful of Rescue Remedy to the water bowl as being very effective for stressed out animals.
They have a pet formula (no alcohol).

As for getting you with his claws, frequent nail trims (which may be a 2 person, cat wrapped in a towel thing) should help minimise the damage.

Since he is going to be an indoor/outdoor kitty make sure he is up-to-date on his vaccines, esp rabies.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/13/2011 9:07:28 AM   
DesFIP


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Neutered males still respond to the scent of females in heat. You do best to get both of them neutered.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/13/2011 9:08:32 AM   
LafayetteLady


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quote:

ORIGINAL: xxblushesxx

We've almost always had a basement kitteh. One who, for one reason or another, is not allowed upstairs.

I'd highly suggest trying to implement the above suggestions first though, because one or a combination might just work for you, and I wouldn't want you feeling guilty every time you saw him. (trust me, it happens) That drug was a miracle worker for us. We're slowly cutting back on it, but he hasn't had an incident in at least a couple (if not a few) months. I think he's been on it about five months.


The basement in the new house is finished, so he can't really run willy nilly there lifting his tail at whim either.  I will try the stuff you mentioned, though.  Thanks.

Just a note:  He has been like this since I have known him.  He has drawn blood on my feet as I walked by (before I even lived here), so I doubt there would be a whole lot of guilt at him being caged.  Honestly, I would prefer to get rid of him and replace him with a kitten who could be trained properly.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/13/2011 9:11:14 AM   
LafayetteLady


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quote:

ORIGINAL: MistressDarkArt

For Sparky's swiping and mean behavior...neutering should help this immensely. Also, time and getting older. Boy kittehs mellow a lot with age and generally become much more affectionate when they mature. Sounds like there are a lot of changes going on for Sparky. Between neutering and letting things settle down in the new house, you should see significant improvement. Good luck!


MDA,

He isn't a young cat.  He is almost 6 years old.  My housemate isn't the best at training and has let Sparky do what he wanted.  He has calmed down a little bit since we moved in here, but that is because every time he has tried to attack me, my cat (Socks) has kicked his ass, lol.

Yes, there are a lot of changes that have occured for all of us, but for Sparky, he has been being forced to learn appropriate behavior, and he isn't liking that very much.  Reminds me of a bratty child who suddenly has rules.

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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/13/2011 9:31:16 AM   
bighappygoth39


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I can only agree with what everyone else has said, but I'm no expert like the lovely Duskypearls. I have had cats as pets off and on for a very long time, though, so I can go on that experience.
When my Fifi had her kittens, I kept two of the boys, and had them all neutered at the same time. It certainly seemed to calm them down, especially the ginger one, who was even naughtier than he can be now, so I should think having your Sparky neutered should show some improvement in his behaviour, at least.
As for litter training, that can be a bit more tricky, but following the other suggestions should work. I can suggest using the wood base stuff, as I've found it to be just brilliant compared to the grit stuff. My boys tend to not cover their mess very well, and their mum usually does it after them, but the wood base stuff certainly helps a lot. I'm sure all of the advice offered should help a great deal, anyway.


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RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/13/2011 9:49:19 AM   
LafayetteLady


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Duskypearls

Boy, is this ever a hot-button topic for cats and their owners! More cats are abandoned or put in shelters for this reason alone. This can be tricky to resolve, and may take time, effort, patience and creativity. Some cats are harder than others to shift, in this regard, especially those who have strong behavioral components to the problem (which it sounds as tho' Sparkly may have), or those who have been doing it for a long time. If it were my cat, I'd consider the following:

Have I ruled out FLUTD (Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease), congenital, neurogenic, and musculoskeletal, DJD (degenerative joint disease)? Chiropractic, acupuncture and Naturopathic remedies may be helpful. Have you a holistic vet in your area?


I realize some people may disagree, but while I am paying to have him fixed, I'm not going to put out the money for a lot of tests.  So any remedies that involve regular vet visits for things like chiropractic or accupuncture are NOT going to happen.  I have not yet chosen a vet in the area.

quote:


Does he spray near windows, cat doors, or house doors in response to seeing/smelling other cats, which inspire it to mark territory? If so, can you block his visual access? If the spraying is a response to cats outside, you could cover the windows or put something slightly aversive on the windowsill like a lemon-scented solid deodorizer. You could also discourage the neighboring cats from coming into the yard.


His spraying is not a response to outside stimuli.  He sprays all over, whenever he wants.  Well he used to.  Now he has slowed down somewhat, but that is because I've gotten my housemate to be more vigilant about watching him.  He likes to spray on boxes, which with packing to move, you can imagine is not acceptable behavior.

quote:


Spraying can result from fear, stress, anxiety, anger, aggression, neglect, or change. Cats are VERY sensitive to change! Does Sparky pick on Socks, as well? So he bites when you pet him, and swipes at you as you walk by. It may be predatory aggression. Does he react with more aggression when corrected? Perhaps Flower Essences may be supportive, i.e., Rescue Remedy (Bach), Snapdragon (Flower Essence Society - FES) for biting/aggression, FES Tiger Lily for hostility/aggression.


He actually was like this long before I came into the picture.  If it was simply the change, I would at least have the comfort of hoping as he adjusted, the behavior would correct itself.  He also regularly bites and swipes at his owner.  I admit that my friend does not understand that he needed to be the alpha between them, which I'm sure contributed to the problem.  My friend has been very lax about correction.  He is a little better now, but mostly the correction comes from me.  I don't favor my cat either.  If Socks does something she knows she isn't allowed to do (like jumping on the counter), she is sharply corrected.

How do I use those flower essences?  Are they in a form that if fed to him, or just the scents?


quote:


Does Sparky get enough attention, handling and special treatment? I know it's hard if he's aggressive, but sometimes extra love, play and treats can be helpful. Aggressive animals don't realize their aggression creates avoidance behaviors in humans, which means they get less positive attention, which often translates into more stress for them, which may equal more aggression. Re-directed aggression occurs when a cat sees another cat, but cannot reach it and attacks the owner or another cat in the household instead. To treat redirected aggression, remove the cat to a quiet dark room and isolate him until he is calm. Don't try to handle the cat—push it with a cardboard shield to maneuver it into a quiet room. Try to prevent visual contact with strange cats—the usual cause of redirected aggression.


My housemate gives his cat attention, although Sparky doesn't get the attention that Socks gets, but Socks comes looking for it.  I have pointedly given Sparky special attention (albeit at a safe distance, lol) right when Socks was there, as well as correctly Socks when she misbehaved in front of him, hoping he saw that it wasn't purely focused on him.

But it does sound as though the crating could have some potential.  He will be in an area of the house away from Socks, and possibly away from everyone.


quote:


Is he spraying in response to Socks, who is unspayed? How old are both cats? Are they indoor or outdoor pets, or both? What's Sparky's full history, including all medical issues?



No, he isn't spraying in response to Socks, or at least not only in response to Socks, since he has been doing it for a very long time.  Socks is 100% indoors and not permitted outside.  Sparky does go out on occassion, but only for very short periods of time.  The aggression with Sparky has been since he was a year old as has the spraying, no medical issues that my housemate is aware of.   Sparky is about six, and Socks' age is unknown.  I believe she was a little over a year when I got her, so that would make her about 3 now.
I would only correct when actually caught in the act of spraying. Doing so after the fact is counterproductive, and actually may increase the behavior. Timing is everything. You can try a loud noise, water pistol, plant sprayer, bean bag, etc.

quote:


"Re-training" in a crate w/a litter box, food/water is a good first step, and as Blushes said, it may take time. Too much time in a crate may create more problems, as he won't get the attention, stimulation and exercise he needs. It can be a fine line to walk. You might consult with a good vet to get their opinion as to whether crate re-training would be better begun before the move or after. FES Chestnut Bud helps instill effective learning patterns during training by stimulating the animals emotional memory and ability to retain training, and not repeat mistakes.


The plan for him being in a crate is that he will be in there much of the time, but my housemate can take him out to play with him or give him affection.  He can also be let out of the crate to go outside and be a cat for a while.  While the ultimate goal is to re-train him, the immediate issue is I can't tolerate him spraying all over the new house.  His crate will be mostly kept in my housemates modeling workshop (he builds models, i.e. planes, cars, etc.) so he won't be totally isolated.

quote:


Have at least 1 litter box per cat, and keep it spotless. Find the litter that works best. Some cats hate scented ones, some won't use mechanical boxes.


Socks doesn't care what is in her litter box, just that she has one.  She will always use it, even if it needs changing.  She is a bit of a slob in that she kicks the litter out, but that can be mostly resolved with a covered box (had one before).  Sparky just doesn't use the box at all.  He didn't before Socks came here either.  He pees anywhere the mood strikes and I guess poops when he goes out.  Although he has started doing both in the shower (gross!).  Hopefully the concept of not pissing where he sleeps will get him in the litter box in the crate.

I can't afford one of those mechanical boxes!  That is what my housemate is for, lol, litter box cleaning is one of his chores.

quote:


Find and clean all previously “marked” areas (fluourescein dye and black light may be necessary). Use enzymatic cleaners to remove it well. NEVER ammonia! Try turning such sites into positive play areas with toys, catnip, litter box, food/water, resting perches, vertical cat trees, etc. Or make the area less attractive to the cat using items like aluminum foil, sticky paper, sandpaper, or a carpet runner with the nubby side up.


That would be nearly every space in this house, which is why I'm waiting until we move.  Then we can examine/clean the furniture that my housemate brings to the new house (he doesn't have much) while Sparky is still confined to the crate.  He does have a little "kitty condo" that my housemate wants to bring along, but I haven't yet "examined" (giving it the good 'ole sniff test) to see whether or not Sparky has marked it.  If he has, the item does not move with us.

quote:


Cats use facial pheromones to mark/own people, places, and objects, and usually will not spray where they have facially marked an area. Try rubbing a washcloth along his whiskers/cheeks repeatedly, then rub it over areas he's previously sprayed on, that have already been cleaned.


I didn't know this!  Sounds like something worth trying.  Should the washcloth be damp or completely dry?

quote:


“Feliway,” a synthetic feline facial pheromone analogue, has a calming effect on marking cats. Try using it on/near the marked areas one to three times a day.


Well this is much easier than trying to wipe his face and avoid teeth!

quote:


Drug therapy may be helpful, i.e., Valium, Buspar, Prozac, Amitriptyline, Clomipramine, but can be toxic, so get liver/kidney baselines before beginning, and monitor their levels during drug therapy. Hormone therapy; Ovaban or Depo Provera may helpful, as they hormonally “feminize” male cats, which may reduce/stop their masculine desire/need to spray/mark.


I will ask the vet about this.

quote:


Surgical interventions are rarely performed to treat urine marking, but, bilateral ischiocavernosus myectomy and olfactory tractotomy have had some success in reducing or controlling urine marking.


I'm honestly not willing to take this route.

quote:


He'll probably want to "mark" his new home as territory, so use his own facial pheromones or Feliway to mark it for him before he gets there. FES Walnut before/during/after move may help him break ties to his old home, and make ties to his new home.

That's all that comes to mind right now, my dear. If I think of anything else, I'll post later. Good luck with him!


Well, he will be confined to the crate when we first move, so we will have to do the alternate "marking" once we are there.  We won't have the luxury of being able to have him somewhere else and doing this.

As usual, you have been very helpful.  Sounds like I have a lot of work ahead of me.  Which really sucks since I honestly have not been able to develop any liking for this cat.  My housemate is very passive and tends to be forgetful, so most of the work will fall to me.  The worst case scenario right now is that Sparky becomes an outdoor only cat, but I would like to avoid it if possible.

ETA: had to fix the damn quotes

< Message edited by LafayetteLady -- 12/13/2011 9:53:30 AM >

(in reply to Duskypearls)
Profile   Post #: 19
RE: For everyone with Well Behaved Cats - 12/13/2011 9:52:04 AM   
LafayetteLady


Posts: 7683
Joined: 5/2/2007
From: Northern New Jersey
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: DesFIP

Neutered males still respond to the scent of females in heat. You do best to get both of them neutered.


Is there something about this statement that is unclear to you?

quote:


Sparky needs to be neutered and Socks needs to be spayed, hopefully this will be done before Christmas, must be done before moving in the new house.


They are BOTH getting fixed.  Sparkey will be neutered, Socks will be spayed, which is the proper term for female cats.

(in reply to DesFIP)
Profile   Post #: 20
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