tommonymous
Posts: 404
Joined: 1/21/2013
Status: offline
|
My "fun" job is working in a gun shop. I'll try to get through everything that's been addressed so far in the thread, starting with your specific questions.
1. If I was buying a shotgun for home defense right now, it would be a used Remington 870 Police. The 870 has three basic models: The 870 Express, 870 Wingmaster, and 870 Police. The Express is the bottom of the barrel and I literally would not take a new-production one if someone offered it for free. (Unless declining would be an insult, obviously.) The Wingmaster is one step up, the current top of the line. They have decent fit and finish and good bluing, and they are built with parts selected for quality on the assembly line. The Police is no longer available for commercial sale. It was the top of the line when it was produced, and these guns were assembled one-at-a-time from the best parts picked off the line in a separate part of the factory. As I said, you can't buy them new anymore but that's what I'd buy. I'm not sure on price since I haven't looked at them lately, and demand has gotten really stupid. So, the market's all fucked up right now.
2. Buying new, at a minimum, I'd plan to spend at least $500 on something like a Browning BPS. The advantages to this are that it's a truly ambidextrous shotgun, so it can be shot lefty or righty. I'd stay away from the cheapest options, since they tend to be a bit more finicky. Put this way, if you're betting your life and trying to save $200 dollars, how dumb will you be if you lose? Federal law requires 18.5" as a minimum length for a shotgun barrel, but I'd go with 20-22 inches if I'm choosing. They're roughly equal in terms of handling, but you'll get one or two more rounds, and some added velocity from the increased expansion time.
3. Enough power to do the job: A shotgun is a fantastic option, but I'll also discuss handgun calibers briefly.
Loaded with about #5 birdshot, a shotgun load will penetrate a wall, and it will harm someone on the other side, though likely not seriously unless you hit them in the eyes. (Not that you'd be trying to do this, sometimes shots miss.) But, it likely won't kill your neighbors or the kids down the hall or up/ downstairs if you miss your target. That said, if you hit a person in the chest at in-home distances (10-15 feet) with a 12 gauge or 20 gauge shotgun load, you'll have a pattern about as big across as a fist at the largest. It will kill them, and that's what you should mentally prepare yourself to do if you plan to have a gun for home defense.
As was mentioned, pistols are more maneuverable, but require more practice. As has also been said, smaller bullets (within reason) on target do a much better job of maximizing danger to the intruder and minimizing danger to everyone else on the block. And I do mean block. The cheapest practice rounds with which to practice are 9mm. Due to advances is bullet construction and powder technology, 9mm defense ammunition performs similarly to .40 S&W. There is a brand of ammunition from Hornaday, called Critical Duty, which has 9mm outperforming 40 S&W, even the .40 Critical Duty. (Please don't ask me how or why...) The largest practical caliber for a semi-auto is .45acp. It's a great round, but costs about double what 9mm costs to practice with. So, which will you practice more with? (And hence become more dangerous to intruders and less dangerous to everyone else with?) Everything from 9mm and up will penetrate several sheetrock walls if you miss your target, with .357 mag and .44 mag penetrating into neighboring houses on a miss, and quite possibly neighboring rooms even on a hit.
4. Minnesota does not have a castle doctrine. As the law stands here, one must have no other options than to shoot in order to be "in the clear." (Including asking nicely for the intruder to leave, this being Minnesota.) The common (and I think sensible) plan of action is to gather the family into the far end of one room, close the door, and call the police. Tell the people inside that you're doing so, and if they open the door and step into the room, kill them. Your insurance company will cover all your electronics, etc. but killing someone is a permanent decision. It is also extremely costly in terms of dollars (because you will likely end up in civil court if not criminal court) and psychological trauma to you and everyone else present. It's not a decision to be taken lightly, or made in the heat of the moment. Also, please keep in mind the idea that if you keep a gun at home for defense, and are not 100% committed to using it to kill someone (as opposed to scaring or wounding them) once you confront them (and practicing with said gun at the range, frequently), you will be more dangerous to yourself, your family, and your community than if you did not have the gun in the first place.
EDIT: Have you given any thought to a large, friendly (to you and yours) dog?
Sorry for the book, apologies for anything that's become redundant.
< Message edited by tommonymous -- 2/10/2013 6:28:55 PM >
_____________________________
"Remember kids. Just because it hasn't happened to you doesn't mean it doesn't happen at all." --Hillwilliam
And just because it worked for you, doesn't mean it will (or ought to) work for everyone.
|
Home Defence - 
Profile
New Messages
No New Messages
Hot Topic w/ New Messages
Hot Topic w/o New Messages
Locked w/ New Messages
Locked w/o New Messages
Post New Thread